tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48456668109479719882024-03-19T05:07:35.812+01:00expeditionist.nlabout climbing, mountaineering, expeditions & gearAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-74029477105020882822014-03-23T10:25:00.003+01:002014-03-23T10:33:04.623+01:00Dutch Cho Oyu 2014 Expedition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Guess where I'm going from april 24 to june 8? </span></span></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPa6q1u0ovy07hHrMYJwc1ujioQtnl7E8Ju93sMo9zWbwapU3IIrZfLJGXDohb5CS6p4eF-Bl2e3EwL3fHQTjWa_AtnkAdDSFn4YRGGvetajER_nTiQub21SGGgcuDPaXLC33FallNpc/s1600/cho+oyu+2014+logo+v03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="chooyu2014.nl" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPa6q1u0ovy07hHrMYJwc1ujioQtnl7E8Ju93sMo9zWbwapU3IIrZfLJGXDohb5CS6p4eF-Bl2e3EwL3fHQTjWa_AtnkAdDSFn4YRGGvetajER_nTiQub21SGGgcuDPaXLC33FallNpc/s1600/cho+oyu+2014+logo+v03.jpg" height="320" title="Dutch Cho Oyu 2014 Expedition" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">The expedition has it's own facebook-page: <a data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=1455064838050048&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A0%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/ChoOyu2014" id="js_18">Dutch Cho Oyu 2014 Expedition</a> (<a href="http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chooyu2014.nl%2F&h=hAQEQzwhB&enc=AZPEb6HtC5wr2OES61hWBmnH33SWfPr3zB6xMeAgYfaSOJhhTGNNAUI9gofNFT6Y1_TraRRaOw0v43eDjt48WeFmyEDjzCsHTota32iWxoV7c7IaFEETneHNkyyJkVTsl-CxJ2gARbxlh0FjkTwFkPYE&s=1" rel="nofollow nofollow" target="_blank">www.chooyu2014.nl</a>) and you can find news & updates on this site </span></span>and off course Twitter and Facebook.<br />
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<br />
So, I've finally started writing up a report of my Ama Dablam
climb, which I did in november 2013. To start with the finale: I
summited on november 22nd! This is the final part: the gear list.<br />
<br />
You'll find 3 columns: the first is the type of gear, the second is the item I brought with me and the third is the weight in grams. For some items I've brought more then one (socks, etc. - you get the idea), but this is not reflected in the list. When building your own gear list be critical of <i>what</i> and how many <i>you</i> take.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NyTnmp5NE9iC-dcYPMJ-Iyc-rfEl1rxcuioSL2q-ROHrRSVjVWzDJDVWrct143lspgNGyfLgsVUzi-5FPm0wsDglEtWFol5HEkba1mcl-_WJzXPmyMdzaLLQyHeLRUbUDpIaXqZPZk0/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(61+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ama Dablam Gear" border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NyTnmp5NE9iC-dcYPMJ-Iyc-rfEl1rxcuioSL2q-ROHrRSVjVWzDJDVWrct143lspgNGyfLgsVUzi-5FPm0wsDglEtWFol5HEkba1mcl-_WJzXPmyMdzaLLQyHeLRUbUDpIaXqZPZk0/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(61+van+91).jpg" title="Ama Dablam Gear List" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gear in use on Ama Dablam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 398px;"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 4900; mso-width-source: userset; width: 101pt;" width="134"></col>
<col style="mso-width-alt: 8411; mso-width-source: userset; width: 173pt;" width="230"></col>
<col style="mso-width-alt: 1243; mso-width-source: userset; width: 26pt;" width="34"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt; width: 101pt;" width="134"><b>Head</b></td>
<td class="xl67" style="width: 173pt;" width="230"><br /></td>
<td class="xl73" style="width: 26pt;" width="34"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Warm Hat</td>
<td class="xl67">Arc'teryx Bird Beanie</td>
<td class="xl73">60</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Hat</td>
<td class="xl67">Outdoor Designs Micro Beanie</td>
<td class="xl73">21</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sun Hat</td>
<td class="xl67">Haglofs Sunhat</td>
<td class="xl73">67</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Facemask</td>
<td>ColdAvenger</td>
<td class="xl73">80</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Buff</td>
<td>Buff</td>
<td class="xl73">34</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Eyes</b></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Suglasses</td>
<td class="xl71">Julbo Monte Bianco Cameleon cat.2-4</td>
<td class="xl72">34</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sunglasses Case</td>
<td class="xl71">Julbo Hard Case</td>
<td class="xl72">20</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sunglasses backup</td>
<td class="xl71">Julbo ski sunglasses (cat. 3)</td>
<td class="xl72">30</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Goggles</td>
<td class="xl67">Julbo Revolution Zebra cat. 2-4</td>
<td class="xl72">150</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td><br /></td>
<td class="xl73"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Top</b></td>
<td><br /></td>
<td class="xl73"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Parka (down)</td>
<td>PHD Rondoy jacket (XL)</td>
<td class="xl73">700</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Hoody (synthetic)</td>
<td>FirstAscent Igniter Jacket</td>
<td class="xl73">590</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl70" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Jacket (down)</td>
<td class="xl70">Arc'teryx Cerium LT Jacket</td>
<td class="xl79">275</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Vest (synthetic)</td>
<td>Arc'teryx Atom LT Vest</td>
<td class="xl73">225</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl70" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Hard Shell</td>
<td class="xl70">Arc'teryx Alpha LT Jacket</td>
<td class="xl79">399</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Wind Shell</td>
<td>Rab Alpine Pull-on</td>
<td class="xl73">265</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Soft Shell</td>
<td>Marmot Ether DriClime Hoody</td>
<td class="xl73">260</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Baselayer (synthetic)</td>
<td>Rab Aeon l/s (110gr) s/s (90gr)</td>
<td class="xl72">100</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Baselayer (merino)</td>
<td>Rab MeCo 130 l/s (160gr) s/s (130gr)</td>
<td class="xl73">145</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Baselayer (mesh)</td>
<td>Brynje Super Thermo s/s</td>
<td class="xl72">120</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Hands</td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Mittens (down)</td>
<td>PHD Xero Down Mitts</td>
<td class="xl73">220</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Gloves (synthetic)</td>
<td class="xl67">Hestra Heli Gloves</td>
<td class="xl73">288</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Gloves (leather)</td>
<td>Mountain Hardwear Minus One Gloves</td>
<td class="xl73">170</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Light Gloves</td>
<td>Extremities Lightweight Guide Gloves</td>
<td class="xl73">58</td>
</tr>
<tr height="18" style="height: 13.5pt; mso-height-source: userset;">
<td height="18" style="height: 13.5pt;">Powerstretch Gloves</td>
<td>Backcountry.com PS Gloves</td>
<td class="xl73">61</td>
</tr>
<tr height="18" style="height: 13.5pt; mso-height-source: userset;">
<td height="18" style="height: 13.5pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="18" style="height: 13.5pt; mso-height-source: userset;">
<td class="xl66" height="18" style="height: 13.5pt;"><b>Legs</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="16" style="height: 12.0pt; mso-height-source: userset;">
<td height="16" style="height: 12.0pt;">Hard Shell</td>
<td>Haglofs Pac-Lite Pant</td>
<td class="xl73">320</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Climbing Pants</td>
<td class="xl67">Klattermusen Megin 2.0 Pants</td>
<td class="xl73">600</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Insulation (synthetic)</td>
<td>MontBell Ultralight Thermawrap</td>
<td class="xl73">343</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Trekking Pants</td>
<td>Rab Alpine Trek & TNF<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></td>
<td class="xl73">425</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Baselayer (mesh)</td>
<td>Brynje Super Thermo Jongjohns</td>
<td class="xl73">140</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Underwear (merino)</td>
<td>Rab MeCo briefs</td>
<td class="xl73">50</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Feet/Socks</b></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sleep Socks</td>
<td>Primaloft Sleepsocks</td>
<td class="xl73">155</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Warm Socks</td>
<td>Patagonia UH Mountaineering Socks</td>
<td class="xl73">188</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Climbing Socks</td>
<td>X-Socks Trekking Expedition Long</td>
<td class="xl73">60</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Climbing Socks</td>
<td>X-Socks Trekking Expedition Short</td>
<td class="xl73">60</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Trekking Socks</td>
<td>X-Socks Trekking Extreme Light </td>
<td class="xl73">56</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Liner Socks</td>
<td>Smartwool Lightweight</td>
<td class="xl73">33</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Feet/Footwear</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Climbing Boots</td>
<td>La Sportiva Spantik boots</td>
<td class="xl73">2920</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Hiking Boots</td>
<td>Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX</td>
<td class="xl73">965</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Approach Shoes</td>
<td>La Sportiva Boulder X</td>
<td class="xl73">650</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Gaiters</td>
<td>Rab Scree Gaiter</td>
<td class="xl73">65</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Slippers</td>
<td>Patagiona Advocate Slippers</td>
<td class="xl73">340</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Climbing Gear</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Helmet</td>
<td class="xl67">Black Diamond Vapor</td>
<td class="xl72">199</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Harness</td>
<td class="xl67">BlueIce Choucas</td>
<td class="xl72">160</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Belay Device</td>
<td class="xl67">RockExotica MicroEight</td>
<td class="xl72">48</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Belay Device</td>
<td class="xl67">Mammut Belay Plate</td>
<td class="xl72">41</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Cowstail</td>
<td class="xl71">Edelrid Rapline 6mm * 3m</td>
<td class="xl76">79</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Carabiners</td>
<td class="xl67">Petzl Attache 3D</td>
<td class="xl72">53</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Carabiners</td>
<td class="xl67">Black Diamond Magnetron RockLock</td>
<td class="xl72">89</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Carabiners</td>
<td class="xl67">Grivel Plume Nut</td>
<td class="xl72">38</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Carabiners</td>
<td class="xl67">Wild Country Helium</td>
<td class="xl72">35</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Ascender</td>
<td class="xl71">Petzl Ascension</td>
<td class="xl72">200</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sling, 120cm</td>
<td class="xl67">Beal Dyneema sling 120 (6mm)</td>
<td class="xl72">31</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Prussik Loop, 30cm</td>
<td>Edelrid Aramid Cord Sling 30 (6mm)</td>
<td class="xl72">19</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Prussik, 150cm</td>
<td class="xl67">6mm, 150cm</td>
<td class="xl72">42</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Ice Axe</td>
<td class="xl67">Grivel Quantum Light, 50cm, Adze</td>
<td class="xl72">500</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Ice Axe</td>
<td class="xl67">Grivel Quantum Light, 50cm, hammer</td>
<td class="xl72">500</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Ice Axe Leash</td>
<td class="xl67">Grivel Single Spring Leash</td>
<td class="xl72">26</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Crampons</td>
<td class="xl67">Petzl Lynx</td>
<td class="xl72">1150</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Walking Poles</td>
<td class="xl67">Helinox Passport Trekking Pole</td>
<td class="xl72">178</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Packs & Duffels</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Backpack</td>
<td class="xl67">Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 pack</td>
<td class="xl72">660</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Duffelbag</td>
<td>Exped 120L duffle</td>
<td class="xl72">1000</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Duffelbag</td>
<td>Radical Design 'Undercover' Small </td>
<td class="xl72">272</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Locks</td>
<td>combination lock padlock (small)</td>
<td class="xl72">21</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Large Drysack</td>
<td>Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Nano 35L</td>
<td class="xl73">60</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Ziplock Bags</td>
<td>Ziplock bags</td>
<td class="xl73">8</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Sleeping</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sleeping Bag (down)</td>
<td class="xl67">PHD Hispar 600 </td>
<td class="xl72">1100</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Compression bag</td>
<td>Granite Gear Air Compressor (23L)</td>
<td class="xl73">85</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sleeping Bag (down)</td>
<td class="xl67">Western Mountaineering UltraLite </td>
<td class="xl72">899</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Compression bag</td>
<td>Exped Ultralite Waterproof (19L)</td>
<td class="xl73">51</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sleeping Bag (down)</td>
<td>GoLite Ultra 20 Quilt</td>
<td class="xl72">640</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Pillow, High Camps</td>
<td class="xl67">Kookabay Air Pillow</td>
<td class="xl72">45</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Pillow, Basecamp</td>
<td class="xl67">Decathlon Compressable Pillow</td>
<td class="xl72">200</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sleeping Mat (Camps)</td>
<td class="xl67">NeoAir Xtherm Regular mat (~R5.8)</td>
<td class="xl72">475</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sleeping Mat (BC)</td>
<td class="xl71">NeoAir All Season mat (~R4.9)</td>
<td class="xl72">790</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sit Map</td>
<td>Closed Cell Sit Mat</td>
<td class="xl72">100</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Personal Equipment</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Watch</td>
<td class="xl67">Polar AXN700 watch</td>
<td class="xl72">122</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Journal</td>
<td class="xl67">Moleskine journal</td>
<td class="xl72">50</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Pencil</td>
<td class="xl67">Pencil</td>
<td class="xl72">6</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Pocket Knife</td>
<td>SpyderCo LadyBug</td>
<td class="xl73">16</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Book</td>
<td class="xl67">Amazon.co.uk / <a href="http://amazon.com/" target="_blank">.com</a></td>
<td class="xl73">150</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Headlight</td>
<td class="xl67">Petzl E+Lite</td>
<td class="xl73">28</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Headlight</td>
<td class="xl67">Petzl Zipka Plus2</td>
<td class="xl73">70</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Headlight</td>
<td class="xl67">Petzl Tikka XP</td>
<td class="xl73">86</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Batteries</td>
<td class="xl67">Lithium AAA batteries</td>
<td class="xl73">20</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Stove</td>
<td>Jetboil Sol Sumo (1.*l)</td>
<td class="xl73">440</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Mug</td>
<td class="xl67">AMS Plastic Thermo-Mug</td>
<td class="xl73">140</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Bowl</td>
<td class="xl67">Decathlon Food Container</td>
<td class="xl73">50</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Spoon</td>
<td class="xl67">Sea to Summit Titanium Long Handle</td>
<td class="xl73">15</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Water Bottle</td>
<td>Nalgene bottle 16oz (Lexan)</td>
<td class="xl73">94</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Water Bottle</td>
<td>Nalgene bottle 32oz (Lexan)</td>
<td class="xl73">180</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Water Bottle</td>
<td>Nalgene bottle 32oz (Polythene)</td>
<td class="xl73">105</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Bottle Insulator</td>
<td>Granite Gear Air Cooler 16oz</td>
<td class="xl73">56</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Bottle Insulator</td>
<td>Granite Gear Air Cooler 32oz</td>
<td class="xl73">84</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Electronics</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl75"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Satellite Comms</td>
<td class="xl67">Yellowbrick Tracker</td>
<td class="xl72">300</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Mobile Phone</td>
<td class="xl67">iPhone 4S</td>
<td class="xl72">138</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Headset</td>
<td class="xl67">Headset for iPhone</td>
<td class="xl73">23</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">iPhone Charger</td>
<td class="xl67">Charger for iPhone 4S</td>
<td class="xl72">47</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">External Battery</td>
<td class="xl67">Battery Sleeve for iPhone 4S</td>
<td class="xl72">90</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">External Battery</td>
<td class="xl67">Chesskin External USB Battery</td>
<td class="xl72">90</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Solar Charger</td>
<td class="xl67">Solar Charger</td>
<td class="xl72">278</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Digital Camera</td>
<td>Sony RX100</td>
<td class="xl73">250</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Spare Batteries</td>
<td>Battery for Sony RX100</td>
<td class="xl73">25</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Tripod</td>
<td>Gorrilapod</td>
<td class="xl73">46</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Toiletries</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl77"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Bag</td>
<td>Ziploc Bag</td>
<td class="xl78">8</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Sunscreen</td>
<td>Suncream (SPF30)</td>
<td class="xl78">50</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">After Sun Lotion</td>
<td>After Sun</td>
<td class="xl78">50</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt; mso-height-source: userset;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Lip Salve</td>
<td class="xl69" style="width: 173pt;" width="230">Uvisport SPF 50 Lipscreen</td>
<td class="xl78">15</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Heat Packets</td>
<td class="xl67">Hand & Feet Warmers</td>
<td class="xl73">70</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Small Towel</td>
<td>MSR Packtowel</td>
<td class="xl78">19</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Hand Gel</td>
<td>Antibackterial Hand Gel</td>
<td class="xl78">100</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl67" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Wet Wipes</td>
<td>Wet Wipes (large pack)</td>
<td class="xl78">50</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Toilet Paper</td>
<td>Coughlans TP</td>
<td class="xl78">40</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Ear Plugs</td>
<td>Otalgan foam ear plugs</td>
<td class="xl78">8</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Toothbrush & Paste</td>
<td>Toothbrush & Paste</td>
<td class="xl78">40</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Pee Bottle</td>
<td>Nalgene Canteen 48 oz.</td>
<td class="xl78">66</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl68" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><br /></td>
<td class="xl68"><br /></td>
<td class="xl74"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;"><b>Emergency</b></td>
<td class="xl66"><br /></td>
<td class="xl77"><br /></td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">First Aid Kit</td>
<td>Meds, Blister-care, Bandaids</td>
<td class="xl72">195</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Emergency & Repair</td>
<td>Pad-repair, cord, matches etc.</td>
<td class="xl72">0</td>
</tr>
<tr height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">
<td height="17" style="height: 12.75pt;">Small Knife</td>
<td>Victorinox Classic SD</td>
<td class="xl72">0</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-80385674762542781902014-01-15T15:39:00.003+01:002014-01-15T17:17:32.940+01:00Ama Dablam 2013 - Logistics & Gear<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a><br />
<br />
So, I've finally started writing up this report of my Ama Dablam
climb, which I did in november 2013. To start with the finale: I
summited on november 22nd! This is part 3, about the logistics of the climb and the gear I used. The first post is about Kathmandu and the
Khumbu valley, the second about the actual climb.<br />
<br />
The logistics in Nepal were all taken care of by Tim Mosedale (<a href="http://www.timmosedale.co.uk/">www.timmosedale.co.uk</a>), who had organized the entire trip. All I needed to do was to book a return flight to Kathmandu. I flew with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (<a href="http://www.klm.com/">www.klm.com</a>), using the AMS-DEL-KTM route.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUfWLuyASXYeTp9GixxB7w0H7A1HCv_qP9GxiDNoSbttukvM4A2rld6EqmGvrQ3RvwQ3jFqmxnkGDeUckCTGtBcR2JFMX3SwadffV-mJh3FYtfjxsUnJybxhxJ1BqBvN7imuPafvrumA/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(50+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUfWLuyASXYeTp9GixxB7w0H7A1HCv_qP9GxiDNoSbttukvM4A2rld6EqmGvrQ3RvwQ3jFqmxnkGDeUckCTGtBcR2JFMX3SwadffV-mJh3FYtfjxsUnJybxhxJ1BqBvN7imuPafvrumA/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(50+van+91).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim explaining logistics in the mess tent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a><b>The Flight</b> <br />
<br />
I had some luck as, due to various reasons, I got upgraded to business class. It was even in one of the refitted new World Business Class cabins! For this flight I needed to tranfer at Delhi Airport (DEL) in India as there are no direct flights (anymore) from Amsterdam (AMS) to Kathmandu (KTM). There are other good options, depending on where you're flying from. For instance, if you're based in the UK, or don't mind transferring there, Qatar Airways (<a href="http://www.qatarairways.com/">www.qatarairways.com</a>) is a good option.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiz0zzgwshKtqRnu7bzcxvYjcpZVvio2XJx8jkO60YAK2ZIMntpYPIA59IWFDgL8P9aaHYkFEecAlbLw2t4f1v5r5kKeu0cfMYkeqPnBXMOzk7RG27SZz-Dpd1L98f5ZsD-W1T_O6KU5U/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(2+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiz0zzgwshKtqRnu7bzcxvYjcpZVvio2XJx8jkO60YAK2ZIMntpYPIA59IWFDgL8P9aaHYkFEecAlbLw2t4f1v5r5kKeu0cfMYkeqPnBXMOzk7RG27SZz-Dpd1L98f5ZsD-W1T_O6KU5U/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(2+van+91).jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new World Business Class on KLM is nice!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Be aware of which booking class you book your ticket in! The booking class sets the conditions for your travel (min/max days of stay, dates changeable, cancellation possible yes/no). <a href="http://www.klm.com/travel/nl_en/plan_and_book/ticket_information/ticket_conditions/index.htm" target="_blank">Information</a> on this can be found on the website of KLM. Why be aware of the booking class? Well, if you buy the cheapest ticket it won't be changeable. So if the dates of your expedition change, and you have a cheap ticket (and thus low booking class) you can't change your ticket. If you buy a ticket in a higher booking class you can change it later. This is obviously more expensive, but can save you money later on. The booking class (e.g. Y,Q,R) is <u>not</u> the same as the class of travel (economy, business) (ok, enough of this avgeek stuff).<br />
<br />
<b>The Gear</b><br />
<br />
In this post I'm not going to write about <i>all</i> the gear I took on this trip, I will highlight some of the gear I used a lot, or liked a lot (or both). I will do another post with my entire gear list though, in case you're planning a trip like this and would like an example gear list. Although Tim's <a href="http://www.timmosedale.co.uk/ama_dablam/ama_dablam_kit_list.htm" target="_blank">gearlist</a> is pretty good, I always like to crosscheck more then one list to see what may be on one, but not the other.<br />
<br />
<b>Julbo Monte Bianco sunglasses</b> with cat. 2-4 Cameleon photochromic lenses - I wore these the <i>whole</i> expedition, they look stylish enough for in town (if you care about that kind of thing), were good during the trek in, and thanks to the (removable) side wings and cat.4 lenses, they were also perfect for high up the mountain. The photochromic lenses adjust to the intensity of the sunlight. Fortunately we did not have a lot of wind, but if we had, my Jublo Revolution goggles (with cat. 2-4 Zebra lenses) would protect my eyes.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxlQMSVwUV416G_SkgZR8Qmze8o0I3a25wTre2fMxnRsCjxBr07koO0vJ_0cNFe8rjuyEILau9gYlGDDgglv2jqDQLQvUpHsicv5j0Ih_zm6eTPtaTd5gvZKk5h6m6-Rqp0y4A7Xr0ZRk/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(61+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxlQMSVwUV416G_SkgZR8Qmze8o0I3a25wTre2fMxnRsCjxBr07koO0vJ_0cNFe8rjuyEILau9gYlGDDgglv2jqDQLQvUpHsicv5j0Ih_zm6eTPtaTd5gvZKk5h6m6-Rqp0y4A7Xr0ZRk/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(61+van+91).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somthing's brewing in Jetboil</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Jetboil Sol with Sumo cup</b> - normally stoves and pots are supplied by the operator. In fact, they were on our expedition. The problem is you don't know what you're going to get. It could be a Pocket Rocket, which are light, but not the best for expedition use in my opinion. So I decided to bring my own, because I know the Jetboil is light, the Sumo 1.8 liter pot is big enough and allows for a gas canister inside and, basically, it's a snow melting machine. Hydration is important! I would take it again.<br />
<br />
<b>Helinox Passport TL trekking poles</b> - these are fixed length trekking poles (I use the 115cm version), and really don't <i>look</i> very strong. But trust me, they are. I've slipped once or twice, and the poles bend (a bit), but don't break! They are also very light, at 158 grams per pole ,and fold up to only 35cm!. Trekking poles aren't everybodies cup of tea, but I wouldn't go without them, if the terrain allows for their use.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWb8UqV2xxc1d8vpUzTHCvWf7DeHIm1jIgEI_0FSqIs58CbFaJQvjBaYyAUcwoXsspOkPpKpb3Jkg3_C38X23nmqqDpeBqPd-9_1gqtI22Vgde0geGg1Rmu2hsJSgayFNyhrBCFXaBoAI/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(67+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWb8UqV2xxc1d8vpUzTHCvWf7DeHIm1jIgEI_0FSqIs58CbFaJQvjBaYyAUcwoXsspOkPpKpb3Jkg3_C38X23nmqqDpeBqPd-9_1gqtI22Vgde0geGg1Rmu2hsJSgayFNyhrBCFXaBoAI/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(67+van+91).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helinox trekking poles and the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 pack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 backpack</b> - this was the only pack I used during the entire expedition. I love it. This is a real alpine climbing pack with all the features. A post with initial impressions of this pack I wrote can be found <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2013/08/gear-arcteryx-alphafl45-pack.html" target="_blank">here</a>. The pack is min. 32 liters and max. 45 liters. With the bungy cords and hooks and loops you can attach some more stuff to the pack. The only time 45 liters was too small was for the move to high camp 2.<br />
<br />
<b>Yellowbrick Tracker</b> - this satellite communicator (text-only, based on the Iridium network) allowed me to stay in touch with home (text and tweet), and vice versa. I would not go on an expedition again without it.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibc-9wa2J3oZLGfKnu7Cg8ip3k1TRecc6_lGCzDbq7lXST47VYKwMoBhVzxq0_5mnNU_dHem1nMkcjQF136OhsBI0OP9ok5S2GIMHheeoutLBTvGvjQb4iserHzuWCX1juQHfpaHsu5Sk/s1600/a77cd900090a11e39da022000aeb0f08_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Yellowbrick Iridium" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibc-9wa2J3oZLGfKnu7Cg8ip3k1TRecc6_lGCzDbq7lXST47VYKwMoBhVzxq0_5mnNU_dHem1nMkcjQF136OhsBI0OP9ok5S2GIMHheeoutLBTvGvjQb4iserHzuWCX1juQHfpaHsu5Sk/s320/a77cd900090a11e39da022000aeb0f08_7.jpg" title="Yellowbrick Tracker" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellowbrick Tracker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you want to know more about logistics, flights or gear, please leave a comment!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-51042349148895912692014-01-15T15:39:00.002+01:002014-01-15T15:42:58.373+01:00Ama Dablam 2013 - The Climb<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a><br />
<br />
So, I've finally started writing up this report of my Ama Dablam
climb, which I did in november 2013. To start with the finale: I
summited on november 22nd! This is part 2 of a 3 part report, about the climb of Ama Dablam itself. The first post is about Kathmandu and the Khumbu valley. The third part will feature the gear
and logistics of the trip.<br />
<br />
We reached Ama Dablam Base Camp on november 9th, after an initial puja at the monestary at Upper Pengboche. The puja ceremony is for luck on the climb. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMzilgdJ2nKeB9U80zNjj2YoXyVM9ipF0zL2cEd0x0GRqKHrJn8EuI3RBlk0Eb1g4gGSygrprw61FNK7trZa3uo5MJWYRt19hvXo0vS0GdJHkzaawq8v-PlP5duB-xG88a2teaF34qlw/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(45+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ama Dablam from Upper Pengboche" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMzilgdJ2nKeB9U80zNjj2YoXyVM9ipF0zL2cEd0x0GRqKHrJn8EuI3RBlk0Eb1g4gGSygrprw61FNK7trZa3uo5MJWYRt19hvXo0vS0GdJHkzaawq8v-PlP5duB-xG88a2teaF34qlw/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(45+van+91).jpg" height="320" title="Ama Dablam" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views of Ama Dablam from the walk down from Upper Pengboche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>After a few hours of walking we arrived at our home for the next few weeks. When you go on an expedition you know you will be going back to a more basic lifestyle. However, our BC was pretty good. One personal tent per member, dining tent, supply tent, shower tent, and 2 toilet tents (affectionately know as turdis (don't ask if you don't get the reference ;-)).<br />
<br />
The first day at BC we had a 'technical training session', where we reviewed the required techniques of going up and down the mountain safely. Off course nobody learned anything new (this would not be time or place for that), but it felt good to finally do a bit of climbing and ropework. By the way, the expedition was organized by Tim Mosedale (<a href="http://www.timmosedale.co.uk/">www.timmosedale.co.uk</a>). Tim has been to Ama Dablam over 10 times, so I felt I was in good hands.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi12xLp9nKETyagXtBlCNn7uphyphenhyphenl6InopTxs_rmXGHiH4i6Kkb0LO8GGCUJhU_828OWWIr6DXCkWPaSB7WqVCPMbMCQ9wofx0zQ5-HeIqhb6P3D-homrA2p-nSFHC9AKCV7_dUUHJZRUvM/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(49+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi12xLp9nKETyagXtBlCNn7uphyphenhyphenl6InopTxs_rmXGHiH4i6Kkb0LO8GGCUJhU_828OWWIr6DXCkWPaSB7WqVCPMbMCQ9wofx0zQ5-HeIqhb6P3D-homrA2p-nSFHC9AKCV7_dUUHJZRUvM/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(49+van+91).jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim demonstrating an ascender - what goes up must not come down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next day we had our Base Camp Puja. A monk came to BC (at 4450m) all the way from Tengboche monestary for this blessing. The ceremony took about an hour and a half, but luckily it's allowed to walk around a bit. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOqV-HwXH2UWWdnAUDR6xqtlqxlYgltBw-uKI2bC0cP82GR-2mf5OasMWDoNXpChmfdXe5BCpuWh8Ob-WW1EiU08mi-kgElVaAFsx71UWxv3ulXIN1cGTqKTXC1_VdbInZavmcQrLD8rI/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(53+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ama Dablam Base Camp" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOqV-HwXH2UWWdnAUDR6xqtlqxlYgltBw-uKI2bC0cP82GR-2mf5OasMWDoNXpChmfdXe5BCpuWh8Ob-WW1EiU08mi-kgElVaAFsx71UWxv3ulXIN1cGTqKTXC1_VdbInZavmcQrLD8rI/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(53+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Ama Dablam Base Camp Puja " width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Base Camp during the Puja - Ama Dablam in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Because the puja was in the morning, we had time in the afternoon to familiarize ourself a bit with the first part of the route, so we went for a hike and a gear carry up to Advance Base Camp (ABC) at 5350m.<br />
I only took a few light items like my sleepingbag and -mat for the high camps, as I didn't want to overexert myself. However, I was still pretty tired when I got to ABC! The first part of the route goes over a ridge of what I think is an old moraine which tops out at 5000m. After that you loose a little altitude and then you get to a gently angled slope which seems to go on and on (and on...). You can see ABC from when you get on the slope, but it's a long way away.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi73M3mu3gosvXopY8D2WJqH-FtrJLrYafze0NWt65h5nEYOWl9gqSY_35HmiBblCbzM-nojp12eWyfObylAaReTMjZUUNaZJCCfvjmRtvXsE64-dnAvIHpl-ZgZ4a6kBLJdxNQDAjjlGs/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(60+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ama Dablam ABC" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi73M3mu3gosvXopY8D2WJqH-FtrJLrYafze0NWt65h5nEYOWl9gqSY_35HmiBblCbzM-nojp12eWyfObylAaReTMjZUUNaZJCCfvjmRtvXsE64-dnAvIHpl-ZgZ4a6kBLJdxNQDAjjlGs/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(60+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Ama Dablam Advanced Base Camp" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost at Ama Dablam ABC!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After our first time up to ABC, we started our rotations to get acclimated. In a rotation you sleep at a higher camp, climb a bit higher the next day, but sleep at the same camp, and then you descend again. The goal of the first rotation was to acclimate to the altitude of ABC and get a few nights sleep there. The day after the first night there we went up to Camp 1 for the first time, which ment getting on the ropes for the first time. The fixed lines on Ama Dablam start at the slabs below Camp 1.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpI6zJMof0CywcFC4yZS5WUNT20O6fzMeTwjThZIgHai-Ms8Yx7Wpr7DnZiA-maC9Slc6gCiD9i_Y3Tig0rVRXwVaBmoulFs1vbOFcqXo1xiP2iDxkgjnk8kzsKTmU8Eg2VXXKNVlZUbM/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(64+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpI6zJMof0CywcFC4yZS5WUNT20O6fzMeTwjThZIgHai-Ms8Yx7Wpr7DnZiA-maC9Slc6gCiD9i_Y3Tig0rVRXwVaBmoulFs1vbOFcqXo1xiP2iDxkgjnk8kzsKTmU8Eg2VXXKNVlZUbM/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(64+van+91).jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon working his way up the slabs below Camp 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On Ama you actually have mobile phone reception at camps 1 and 2 if you get up on top of the ridge (which is only a few meters scrambling), because of at those points you have sufficient altitude for a line of sight to the repeater station. So I was able to phone my girlfriend, which she appreciated!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWPSh_5-wFmcUpggsEvvwS33nmIvqX5DpVajKtF6VINf0GHZISZOxDMcn5MUumKPS0vmwIqIv-C9CUq8PhlPWFnWRny8Tt58_5tCUBYKBttW_F3bNSvqoEiRGfAJm_bqUzhMW_HuTXYQ/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(65+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ama Dablam Camp 1" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWPSh_5-wFmcUpggsEvvwS33nmIvqX5DpVajKtF6VINf0GHZISZOxDMcn5MUumKPS0vmwIqIv-C9CUq8PhlPWFnWRny8Tt58_5tCUBYKBttW_F3bNSvqoEiRGfAJm_bqUzhMW_HuTXYQ/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(65+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Camp 1 on Ama Dablam" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp 1 on Ama Dablam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For the next rotation we slept at ABC for one night and moved to Camp 1 (5800m) the next day. The plan for the day after that was to go up the route to Camp 2 (5950m), but I decided to stay put at C1. There's not much vertical distance between C1 and C2, so no need to acclimate to the higher camp. So I had a rest day. I was brewing and eating the whole day. Well, as much as you can at atlitude, anyway.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm9g0m8gsno_S0gkk2KCzVwrOs_k6skE3poIMeiQMY2x0ZNyM4Qb4Yd9TlcSiPEbuLQPvets9soBWZkg1lUIBQda7hmxBOqj2pqltFiLIzqKgeoQpgP0sCLHof3vYFb1MF8Ihv0bfjhlw/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(70+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Route from Camp 1 on Ama Dablam" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm9g0m8gsno_S0gkk2KCzVwrOs_k6skE3poIMeiQMY2x0ZNyM4Qb4Yd9TlcSiPEbuLQPvets9soBWZkg1lUIBQda7hmxBOqj2pqltFiLIzqKgeoQpgP0sCLHof3vYFb1MF8Ihv0bfjhlw/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(70+van+91).jpg" height="320" title="View from Camp 1 on Ama Dablam" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from my tent at Camp 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
2013 was a bit different from other years on Ama Dablam. Mid-october the tropical typhoon Phailin had hit India, which also caused a lot of snow to fall in het Himalaya. Up to 2 meters more then usual at some points, and there was snow all the way down to BC. To put it in perspective, in a normal year you can go up to C1 and not set foot in any snow!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXe9rB42-9DFzXYodQe9eyWg57MhHl7JUEbX7oWQfZzHnsmH6kq40Kr6SaUL24M0bXY5JqhGhuzcumurnW3qfcpPth26LrCtVCc9Loj1Wle64p0SQ_TiiRIRkudNwmWrjloMMeXIUQXo/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(71+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Route between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Ama Dablam" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXe9rB42-9DFzXYodQe9eyWg57MhHl7JUEbX7oWQfZzHnsmH6kq40Kr6SaUL24M0bXY5JqhGhuzcumurnW3qfcpPth26LrCtVCc9Loj1Wle64p0SQ_TiiRIRkudNwmWrjloMMeXIUQXo/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(71+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Looking at Camp 1 on Ama Dablam" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down at Camp 1 from the rout to Camp 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Because of this the route to the summit could not be fixed until very
late in the season - 16 november. In fact, I had just settled in at Camp
1 when the route setting sherpa's (from the Alpenglow team - thanks
guys!) came down. So only from that day it was possible to summit. This
proved to be perfect timing. On 18 november we descended back to BC,
after which we had a rest day. On the 20th we moved up to C1, and then
to Camp 2 on the 21st. By that day, most climber that had been waiting for the route to be opened, had gone up and summited, and so it wasn't too busy high on the mountain when we were there. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTdg4fbpsqUWHEBQhKamouGRv6KDm2c5MB1dXdjpLkTSWCIpFC2o1wAkPU3EhR4xs5LouAoUr25YTqrq6tUPR8_qTp4Auh-dGsb3hKLHMjycDt91CiUFquPel_SXDoLVUDLAD_gL7lzbo/s1600/1424331_10152415576043508_1676779429_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTdg4fbpsqUWHEBQhKamouGRv6KDm2c5MB1dXdjpLkTSWCIpFC2o1wAkPU3EhR4xs5LouAoUr25YTqrq6tUPR8_qTp4Auh-dGsb3hKLHMjycDt91CiUFquPel_SXDoLVUDLAD_gL7lzbo/s1600/1424331_10152415576043508_1676779429_n.jpg" height="240" title="just below the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just below the Yellow Tower (I'm the one with the orange pack)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So on the 21st of november I was in a position to try to get to the summit of Ama Dablam. On the 22nd we left Camp 2 around 4 am, which meant we had to climb the Grey Couloir by the light of our headtorches. Luckily the moon was fairly bright, which helped. By the way, when I say 'we', I mean Lhakpa and me. Lhakpha was the sherpa that climbed with me, to the summit.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXq2wiRcVldXIa5U-ijuEKoOzytNAjv6A_i2KSum1xY-hFsAKZIgLI8ajlJXdRTEK0MocJ0uH5shGMFT7U0wkTU2dAEYcQJZv093SyL2-3PhqjzI13ezYl1Q6DM66GrCPM7MFpyhkEDw/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(72+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXq2wiRcVldXIa5U-ijuEKoOzytNAjv6A_i2KSum1xY-hFsAKZIgLI8ajlJXdRTEK0MocJ0uH5shGMFT7U0wkTU2dAEYcQJZv093SyL2-3PhqjzI13ezYl1Q6DM66GrCPM7MFpyhkEDw/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(72+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Lhakpa Sherpa on Ama Dablam" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lhakpa Sherpa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Grey Couloir is a bit mixed, but mostly ice/neve. There can be a lot of blue ice here, but this season (probably due to the snow) not so much. After the couloir comes Mushroom Ridge, so named because of the shape of the snow on the ridge. This ridge was the main difficulty in the route fixing, so we were very careful here. After that we moved past the location where Camp 2.9 is located some seasons (weather permitting), then past the Dablam (the hanging glacier wich gives the mountain it's name) and up the summit slopes. Just before noon we reached the summit (6956m).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzSsmD7RM4VRez-QPO-9XqC_wy0ilocH0R5mPnifivx-uGy0r47JtKMsXH4priKSk-o7N4HIu7j9pbB5YJf3cqBNDQYXI34apKCOYEOkmxjTntFLP4zhckCHjDQFbepuCPxU9A9Dr1e0/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(79+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzSsmD7RM4VRez-QPO-9XqC_wy0ilocH0R5mPnifivx-uGy0r47JtKMsXH4priKSk-o7N4HIu7j9pbB5YJf3cqBNDQYXI34apKCOYEOkmxjTntFLP4zhckCHjDQFbepuCPxU9A9Dr1e0/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(79+van+91).jpg" height="320" title="On the summit of Ama Dablam" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the summit of Ama Dablam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the summit I sent a tweet, called my girlfriend, took some pictures, almost coughed my lungs out and then it was time to descend. Because most of the ropes were free when I got to them, I rappelled a lot, only using an armwrap on a few sections. This way I the descent was fairly quick, and I was back in my tent brewing by four in the afternoon.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-12500728409216422742014-01-15T15:39:00.000+01:002014-01-15T15:42:33.926+01:00Ama Dablam 2013 - Kathmandu & Khumbu<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a><br />
<br />
So, I've finally started writing up this report of my Ama Dablam climb, which I did in november 2013. To start with the finale: I summited on november 22nd!<br />
<br />
This wil be a 3 part report. First up is the Kathmandu and Khumbu valley section of the trip. Second will be about the climb itself. The third section will feature the gear and logistics of the trip.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE8sJWRULZ-Kzx8d0AtOiBvAAUeQ66THk7ocBy7S27iwxWia3BsyZ4jh6y66n_CBslIRcRNR_E8usixHE2GnAWehVLvXQ3aFmnXhmTm0tQlE0Y6IxXAwh8qd1eyu67y9TqjqqgvmlhbRU/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(10+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE8sJWRULZ-Kzx8d0AtOiBvAAUeQ66THk7ocBy7S27iwxWia3BsyZ4jh6y66n_CBslIRcRNR_E8usixHE2GnAWehVLvXQ3aFmnXhmTm0tQlE0Y6IxXAwh8qd1eyu67y9TqjqqgvmlhbRU/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(10+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Boudhanath stupa in Kathmandu" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boudhanath stupa in Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>Kathmandu</b>
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I left Amsterdam on november 2nd on a <a href="http://www.klm.com/">KLM Royal Dutch Airlines</a> flight, and arrived in Kathmandu (KTM) on november 3rd. My trip was with <a href="http://www.timmosedale.co.uk/">Tim Mosedale</a>, and he uses <a href="http://www.himalayanguides.com/">Himalayan Guides</a> (HG) as the operator in Nepal. A representative of HG was waiting for me at KTM airport and took me to the <a href="http://www.hotelmanaslu.com/">Hotel Manaslu</a>, which is not too far from the Thamel area.<br />
<br />
My second day in KTM was spent sightseeing and shopping. Tim had arranged a sightseeing tour in the morning. We visited the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boudhanath" target="_blank">Boudhanath stupa</a> and the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pashupatinath_Temple" target="_blank">Pashupatinath temple</a>. After lunch it was time to visit <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thamel" target="_blank">Thamel</a> and buy the last odds and ends we needed. Shona's came highly recommended, so off course we had to visit.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0KuRMexjoYqLJS3wBS8NM05QQ9dUKwPfiN5OBtEcXVd6byPwkcp1Z51wVGeveqnrKEBalhzqbWh1m5gRr8yWgpVBS_ynuXC9pHl70VraDEz8oFLNMsddpKAwrIVOC1sc0KeJxU-kSAg/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(12+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0KuRMexjoYqLJS3wBS8NM05QQ9dUKwPfiN5OBtEcXVd6byPwkcp1Z51wVGeveqnrKEBalhzqbWh1m5gRr8yWgpVBS_ynuXC9pHl70VraDEz8oFLNMsddpKAwrIVOC1sc0KeJxU-kSAg/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(12+van+91).jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shona's in Thamel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next day had an early start. We were to take the first flight out of KTM to Lukla. As it turned out, it was a bit foggy, and so we had to wait for a few hours in domestic terminal. Let me tell you: there's not much to do there, so we just had some tea and biscuits and waited it out.<br />
<br />
Flying to Lukla, and especially landing and taking off at Lukla, is 'an experience'. If you don't like flying much, you'll be in for a treat. The runway is short and steep and at the edge of cliff :-)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBdediqxK_AbCAOuEbQoehLgNChIEBvTAX7nWRyHhVq-_9iEysgAagR85xViwRBRXKw7PLcgmeMy2nM8WE1puiwdhhHkhkLSks89CupxXeOTPTPofnTHhQuAQ9VnOfACzj8qSYmmPSF9k/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(15+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Lukla" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBdediqxK_AbCAOuEbQoehLgNChIEBvTAX7nWRyHhVq-_9iEysgAagR85xViwRBRXKw7PLcgmeMy2nM8WE1puiwdhhHkhkLSks89CupxXeOTPTPofnTHhQuAQ9VnOfACzj8qSYmmPSF9k/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(15+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Lukla Airport, Nepal" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The short and steep runway at Lukla</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After breakfast at <a href="http://www.nepalhotelrooms.com/accommodation/Everest-Region/Lukla/Paradise-Lodge-180/details.html" target="_blank">Paradise Lodge</a> in Lukla, we started trekking. Our first overnight stop was not at the usual suspect Phakding, but at Monjo, which is just 10 minutes walking from the Sagarmatha National Park entrance gate. The benefit of this was to beat the crowd to the entrance gate the next morning, so we wouldn't have to walk up to Namche Bazaar in a train of other hikers.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzMPSW0XpiZfknnuokru-jwkUDZDTCn_OrKuViG3eDLrNQGQO_7jpnVTAZ7H4cvTO8vBWNWEKO50cS7_CSrJN6lMunElO8UIwVt8yL8OlnvYfQ3BAQXnIa6ZUyMv1p5Mp0jXtjqb_zDk/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(20+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzMPSW0XpiZfknnuokru-jwkUDZDTCn_OrKuViG3eDLrNQGQO_7jpnVTAZ7H4cvTO8vBWNWEKO50cS7_CSrJN6lMunElO8UIwVt8yL8OlnvYfQ3BAQXnIa6ZUyMv1p5Mp0jXtjqb_zDk/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(20+van+91).jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is me at the national park entrance gate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The second night we stayed in Kyangjuma, at the very good Ama Dablam View Lodge & Restaurant, where we were well looked after Tashi and her family. From the lodge you have your first great view of Ama Dablam (hence the name).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtwzjdnPXLJjaKOTwpPB3STW5lfWM9WTPmBfRr8MWSiPZLupJ2DlZf2aclpGFemtmG2Pah5R4HNoRbCs4dLD2CiT2-9uxRgGfBd6NYeg2i18zzZLLGVVjNpGQCDosrtk9MK8G1Pw2Kmk/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(33+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ama Dablam Lodge Kyangjuma" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtwzjdnPXLJjaKOTwpPB3STW5lfWM9WTPmBfRr8MWSiPZLupJ2DlZf2aclpGFemtmG2Pah5R4HNoRbCs4dLD2CiT2-9uxRgGfBd6NYeg2i18zzZLLGVVjNpGQCDosrtk9MK8G1Pw2Kmk/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(33+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Ama Dablam View Lodge & Restaurant Kyangjuma" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ama Dablam View Lodge & Restaurant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After our stay of two nights at Tashi's lodge, we moved on to Pengboche, via Tengboche, where we made the obligatory stop at the bakery. It's unbelievable how good the coffee and cake tastes at a place this high up the valley. We slept in an proper bed one last night at the Sonam Lodge at Peng, as the next day we would move to basecamp!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmbsXTTs6HnzzXDZMlO9nLcvUDKKQoJ3s8kkg56IRFRDS7HeEBIZh1MBHPnJ5ppfHyY5ccYe0HK5R1YZokn3kQh2q1YVwrPX-4eiTJ1WMVpummkcFOe2fottyW6UYsKX3Au3owTeNX94M/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(17+van+91).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="views along the Khumbu trail" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmbsXTTs6HnzzXDZMlO9nLcvUDKKQoJ3s8kkg56IRFRDS7HeEBIZh1MBHPnJ5ppfHyY5ccYe0HK5R1YZokn3kQh2q1YVwrPX-4eiTJ1WMVpummkcFOe2fottyW6UYsKX3Au3owTeNX94M/s1600/Nepal-Ama+Dablam+-+November+2013+(17+van+91).jpg" height="213" title="Stupa in the Khumbu" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing views along the Khumbu trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Stay tuned for part 2 of 3 in this series: the Climb!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-kathmandu-khumbu.html">Kathmandu & Khumbu</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-climb.html">the Climb</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-logistics-gear.html">Logistics & Gear</a> - <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2014/01/ama-dablam-2013-gear-list.html">Full Gear List</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-19286849084197294402013-11-01T21:39:00.000+01:002013-11-01T21:44:50.406+01:00Ama Dablam 2013This is a friendly 'out of office' reminder: during the month of november I will be on Ama Dablam in Nepal.<br />
<br />
I will be using a Yellowbrick satellite 2-way communicator, which will provide location reports and textmessages, which will be automaticatlly forwarded to my Twitter and Facebook accounts. I plan to send an update every 1 or 2 days.<br />
<br />
You can keep track of my progress here:<br />
<a href="http://my.yb.tl/expeditionist/" target="_blank">http://my.yb.tl/expeditionist/</a> <br />
<br />
My tweets can be found on this site, or here:<br />
<a href="http://twitter.com/Sieto" target="_blank">http://twitter.com/Sieto</a> <br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-53931818497386439232013-08-01T21:19:00.001+02:002014-04-07T12:24:05.986+02:00Gear: Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
When I saw the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 pack at the Arc'teryx booth (<a href="http://instagram.com/p/btlxA5Qsre/" target="_blank">instragram video</a>) at the Outdoor Show at Friedrichshaven this year, I liked what I saw (and it won an award, so others must like it too!). I liked it even more when I learned I could test a sample. So I took the pack on a alpine climbing trip I had coming up. Below are my initial impressions, I will write a a long-term use report after I've used the pack a bit longer.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0DTP5FWeplsByW4UlfKxgOoK8gyNQ99l3PZv754kkj5kT0W3WuWNSPgw2QZMLvdFNrQKTbhjS0XLlSOLLJ3Z_fRMxzz-kh3K88rbmsOI897kTUvlrrCPlB9b0fIvCLfdWzK_djNu8UQ/s1600/naamloos-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 in front of the Aiguille Dibona" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0DTP5FWeplsByW4UlfKxgOoK8gyNQ99l3PZv754kkj5kT0W3WuWNSPgw2QZMLvdFNrQKTbhjS0XLlSOLLJ3Z_fRMxzz-kh3K88rbmsOI897kTUvlrrCPlB9b0fIvCLfdWzK_djNu8UQ/s320/naamloos-7.jpg" height="240" title="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a name='more'></a>I took the pack with me to the Parc National des Ecrins in France, where I climbed the Aiguille Dibona via a relatively simple route called the Voie de Nain (AD-, 150m). I used it to carry my gear to the refuge, and then the next day when climbing the Dibona.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggo_7EPxX09g6UShAA8JDnMynckgDFoga_PGHXOLeVdi78nw0rWBsJ6PsP7uLFlwOVI5i1zyme9Kb448ov21061x69lpYKy1pAhFzqzzZtjVggYIZKXIbWDNChNcSRyVHa7mem-93rpLw/s1600/On+the+Gioberney.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Alpha FL 45" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggo_7EPxX09g6UShAA8JDnMynckgDFoga_PGHXOLeVdi78nw0rWBsJ6PsP7uLFlwOVI5i1zyme9Kb448ov21061x69lpYKy1pAhFzqzzZtjVggYIZKXIbWDNChNcSRyVHa7mem-93rpLw/s320/On+the+Gioberney.jpg" height="200" title="Alpha FL 45 alpine pack" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I also used the pack on Mont Gioberney</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Being a minimal alpine climbing pack (the 'FL' in the name stands for Fast & Light), it's not the best load carrier, but for a load of around 13 kilo's from the trailhead to the refuge it was ok. The name implies its a 45 liter pack, but that's when you 've got the collar fully extended. Basic capacity is 32 liter, which was enough for the carry to the refuge, with the rope, helmet and iceaxe on the outside. It's very easy to attach these items to the pack.<br />
<br />
Actual climbing with the pack is a dream. At 32 liters it's not too large to use when climbing and it's not too small to leave anything at the refuge. The exteriour of the pack is very clean and very tough, using the proprietary AC2 material.<br />
<br />
Some more images of the pack:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXiA0EZnvyFwUiQ8aBLNYMBUaUeMDPuK7jtCT3ExfpGDq_5bXlP9ThmbJ7HZyvPFipHLFdtoe6Uho_z5raEp1ERcN5dEJuu3upqtUYnFOK4hKAe_GOSmmSmN0n7MtNTi9XurFYie6JaVo/s1600/IMG_3698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Arcteryx Alpha FL 45" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXiA0EZnvyFwUiQ8aBLNYMBUaUeMDPuK7jtCT3ExfpGDq_5bXlP9ThmbJ7HZyvPFipHLFdtoe6Uho_z5raEp1ERcN5dEJuu3upqtUYnFOK4hKAe_GOSmmSmN0n7MtNTi9XurFYie6JaVo/s320/IMG_3698.JPG" height="320" title="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 external pocket" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">front of the pack. note the bungee cord and single external pocket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQkzVzEW8IZsoRZGFpL6u2BNZnWbMSAj8geApX80Qknp5AUh2pNaRTJWV0T-W7U3gqjS7bQd43VmSra3xQYd1P67HJwLqFJih-yF5CkDl2OPPTLQqtdjgM5VFrLKUACHIk8GxcHiHWqE/s1600/IMG_3710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Arcteryx Alpha FL 45" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQkzVzEW8IZsoRZGFpL6u2BNZnWbMSAj8geApX80Qknp5AUh2pNaRTJWV0T-W7U3gqjS7bQd43VmSra3xQYd1P67HJwLqFJih-yF5CkDl2OPPTLQqtdjgM5VFrLKUACHIk8GxcHiHWqE/s320/IMG_3710.JPG" height="320" title="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 with ice axes" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pack with 2 ice axes attached</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHdfYpy9vPOHHrr8ft0PJkXrLXAHDjoMAAxbJgEDLFGj5FOu1X6oOfEEbmg6okgn83O5jfbSxbKc6r8yt1l_xDj73HtuNPtqczzkp-ACX3lQXHyEm3DAgo8pJwySKae-kbqpriuB9-Jss/s1600/IMG_3706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Arcteryx Alpha FL 45" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHdfYpy9vPOHHrr8ft0PJkXrLXAHDjoMAAxbJgEDLFGj5FOu1X6oOfEEbmg6okgn83O5jfbSxbKc6r8yt1l_xDj73HtuNPtqczzkp-ACX3lQXHyEm3DAgo8pJwySKae-kbqpriuB9-Jss/s320/IMG_3706.JPG" height="320" title="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 suspension" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">minimalist suspension system (though not uncomfortable)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjFzeXlK6oAS8GPGQqiKvVJ4Sbef5PyisACN5wlxD76qTeu1Lf0lDDLhzgnS8O98eWG0eQFEXGSnUVaOmCH2Ptrnr1omMvvCjkzhjAYTQbidCj3Uvv1S_1X6fCMvueb252CYjoIWYmdVE/s1600/IMG_3707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Arcteryx Alpha FL 45" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjFzeXlK6oAS8GPGQqiKvVJ4Sbef5PyisACN5wlxD76qTeu1Lf0lDDLhzgnS8O98eWG0eQFEXGSnUVaOmCH2Ptrnr1omMvvCjkzhjAYTQbidCj3Uvv1S_1X6fCMvueb252CYjoIWYmdVE/s320/IMG_3707.JPG" height="320" title="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 rolltop" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">internal waterproof roll-top closure</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPXbwhGJ7yrjEn50glgVtPLz5sqHX2NF68KICFpzngbrS_6Ibo35lHabS1ql6pThiQcWt1fwZ3DvRHefVb4rGe-s91joO547LW6RAkZYezCYTvFFoWdSoftDUelWOdI7HQKAXiGYXiCQ/s1600/IMG_3708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Arcteryx Alpha FL 45" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPXbwhGJ7yrjEn50glgVtPLz5sqHX2NF68KICFpzngbrS_6Ibo35lHabS1ql6pThiQcWt1fwZ3DvRHefVb4rGe-s91joO547LW6RAkZYezCYTvFFoWdSoftDUelWOdI7HQKAXiGYXiCQ/s320/IMG_3708.JPG" height="320" title="Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 extension collar" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the roll-top closure doubles as an extension collar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The pack comes in 45 liter (32-45) and 30 liter (23-30) sizes. The Alpha FL 30 weighs 610 grams and will cost around 150 euros, the Alpha FL 45 weighs 659 grams on my scales and will cost around 170 euros. Available from spring 2014. So you'll have to wait a bit.
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Disclaimer: the pack I tested is a sample on loan to me for the purpose of a test.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-27199372552561268392013-05-06T15:44:00.001+02:002013-05-06T15:44:45.838+02:00Gear: Climbing Technoloy RollNLockI've been testing a new procuct from Climbing Technology for Hoogtelijn Magazine; the Climbing Technology RollNLock. As space in the magazine is limited here's a more extensive online impression and review.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhyphenhyphenqRvioyDsdVJsFwdmogx6QFxFybIo8S54SkUsvTzzQjLuw5nlS4etrJw4kiEYlOERbaKKlXrT8hW9wosn2QZCbigndI8stGQb0_sG042DFsrJmPR13YHQpImTLeGqV4gIgbOw1IQKc/s1600/CT+RollNLock+close-up+in+use.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RollNLock" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhyphenhyphenqRvioyDsdVJsFwdmogx6QFxFybIo8S54SkUsvTzzQjLuw5nlS4etrJw4kiEYlOERbaKKlXrT8hW9wosn2QZCbigndI8stGQb0_sG042DFsrJmPR13YHQpImTLeGqV4gIgbOw1IQKc/s320/CT+RollNLock+close-up+in+use.jpg" title="Climbing Technology RollNLock" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing Technology RollNLock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_1499984491"></span><span id="goog_1499984492"></span><br />
<span id="goog_1499984492"></span><br />
<a name='more'></a>A quick Q&A to start with:<br />
Q: What is a RollNLock? <br />
A: It's a pulley and a rope-clamp in one.<br />
Q: It looks like the Wild Country Ropeman 3 and Kong Duck, is it the same thing? <br />
A: Well, what they have in common is the rope-clamp. But the RollNLock has a pulley, which the Ropeman and Duck do not.<br />
Q: Sounds more like the Petzl Micro Traxion then? <br />
A: Well, yes, the RollNLock and Micro Traxion are very similar. There are slight differences though.<br />
Q: So what does it do? <br />
A: You can use it as a pulley, as a rope-clamp, progress-capture device in a hauling-system and as ascender.<br />
<br />
Because I think people that are considering getting a RollNLock will very probably compare it to a Petzl Micro Traxion, I'll compare the two side by side.<br />
<br />
This is how the devices look when using them as progress-capture devices:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZP6fZTy5j__vQTXg3AiQQJCgv566MfS2a0NWI2mM5Yw4B2On0NiDrz0zOyuOaVQIDCOJqMG_ad4L2ISm0n8Z3lhHBmlBhfSUQTsqJBYXsfcx4SA-TVeFOeGhRHghCBH36AcUugOHLNQ/s1600/IMG_3347.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="RollNLock" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZP6fZTy5j__vQTXg3AiQQJCgv566MfS2a0NWI2mM5Yw4B2On0NiDrz0zOyuOaVQIDCOJqMG_ad4L2ISm0n8Z3lhHBmlBhfSUQTsqJBYXsfcx4SA-TVeFOeGhRHghCBH36AcUugOHLNQ/s200/IMG_3347.JPG" title="Climbing Technology RollNLock" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL6CjeU6YWOkVd_QAKm7CrofB6qqiRA7tbp1QCrWS6_RWvB5JiF3C5Xjo7lydF3m197oNn0Nud_RC3ObZcPkZUIUSLAOE1CeOE-L_gLxeKKpormtjaEimO4OmEmqNWJqZKN8Zr52oRP3A/s1600/IMG_3352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Micro Traxion" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL6CjeU6YWOkVd_QAKm7CrofB6qqiRA7tbp1QCrWS6_RWvB5JiF3C5Xjo7lydF3m197oNn0Nud_RC3ObZcPkZUIUSLAOE1CeOE-L_gLxeKKpormtjaEimO4OmEmqNWJqZKN8Zr52oRP3A/s200/IMG_3352.JPG" title="Petzl Micro Traxion" width="150" /></a></div>
<br />
To show how this works on the inside of the device:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQf9IgZLcnHGK4Zd2ilSDQ9id2krZEVq9bNWHIHjd5MWRIak2Zpq_rv2_02AAl0UzKCFrlUF7uHz2XZ9v_6L36SwLQZ9z8Pk7pezA16nDH3Qul93AdlBUWkU4yG_OhXvQ-RD1JMlnnwhU/s1600/IMG_3355.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="RollNLock open" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQf9IgZLcnHGK4Zd2ilSDQ9id2krZEVq9bNWHIHjd5MWRIak2Zpq_rv2_02AAl0UzKCFrlUF7uHz2XZ9v_6L36SwLQZ9z8Pk7pezA16nDH3Qul93AdlBUWkU4yG_OhXvQ-RD1JMlnnwhU/s200/IMG_3355.JPG" title="Climbing Technology RollNLock open" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Y0CDbVDiIA2OtuuaoQodvNc7HV7CK2PLG5Bn6LrsAVl3MUNGdyOxsjqKqiJrpJc-v_JoCN5iryg4UO_yFNrKbz46uFNhbwy1ys7VsNDbvkvoMUrAj-FVQpyRwdHq5qPI2YdxrleRsVU/s1600/IMG_3353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Micro Traxion open" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Y0CDbVDiIA2OtuuaoQodvNc7HV7CK2PLG5Bn6LrsAVl3MUNGdyOxsjqKqiJrpJc-v_JoCN5iryg4UO_yFNrKbz46uFNhbwy1ys7VsNDbvkvoMUrAj-FVQpyRwdHq5qPI2YdxrleRsVU/s200/IMG_3353.JPG" title="Petzl Micro Traxion open" width="150" /></a></div>
<br />
Depending on how the device is placed on the rope the fucntion is either rope-clamping, progress-capturing or ascending the rope.<br />
<br />
You can 'disengage' and lock the springloaded cam, and use the device only as a pulley, which looks like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh49dTaC8R2BHzR7VXs-kDvtfcsEsZANjV_hiDIK-QQ3j5wR5WYMwgpKcwdUgipjFd0magk-2whHn48ucJlzSukFX6LpeeDVXN7f5cAi0HMTI6k-M-lUTuIJHnDnjBcjH4XVk43NZbtU3g/s1600/IMG_3359.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="RollNLock pulley" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh49dTaC8R2BHzR7VXs-kDvtfcsEsZANjV_hiDIK-QQ3j5wR5WYMwgpKcwdUgipjFd0magk-2whHn48ucJlzSukFX6LpeeDVXN7f5cAi0HMTI6k-M-lUTuIJHnDnjBcjH4XVk43NZbtU3g/s200/IMG_3359.JPG" title="RollNLock pulley" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMyrAbAt4tjgLnNZN3-5FQwLm2Dl6o57cyFWZs4vr39DZtOi6Ut309zIbb70jcmUERdTmrvx62zX_UMxw1wb66UJblZh3kRcmqApqij5s8oa29kHiztYbcMWjW9OME6Q-BlB2A_2GB8V0/s1600/IMG_3360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Micro Traxion pulley" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMyrAbAt4tjgLnNZN3-5FQwLm2Dl6o57cyFWZs4vr39DZtOi6Ut309zIbb70jcmUERdTmrvx62zX_UMxw1wb66UJblZh3kRcmqApqij5s8oa29kHiztYbcMWjW9OME6Q-BlB2A_2GB8V0/s200/IMG_3360.JPG" title="Micro Traxion pulley" width="150" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The differences between the RollNLock & Micro Traxion are:<br />
- (not a differnce, but...) they both weigh 81 grams exactly<br />
- the RollNLock is more compact & symetrical, which makes a difference carrying it on your harness<br />
-
because of where the springloaded cam is positioned on the device, when
you use it in progress-capture mode, the device doesn't grip the rope
te second you let go, there's a ever so slight delay because the cam
needs to move a 1 or 2 centimers to close<br />
- the RollNLock needs to
be used with an oval carabiner. With the Micro Traxion you can get away
with a pear shaped (and slightly lighter), but this is not ideal.<br />
- in the Netherlands the RollNLock (~60 Euro) can be found cheaper then the Micro Traxion (~70 Euro)<br />
<br />
Side by side the devices look like this:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjRuhyphenhyphenaKSAeUbZ8AjbxVL8DS3yFwY1IlsxMFpDZAPTlsdbLtk9trCSFCU3p78DY5_v7XdGL1u0W-OvS1LphbEGhHKOHRplEHTiz76StpyXz_gWN60jQbX6Dg0llDK5MNCV9hGysT5ijA/s1600/IMG_3372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RollNLock and Micro Traxion" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjRuhyphenhyphenaKSAeUbZ8AjbxVL8DS3yFwY1IlsxMFpDZAPTlsdbLtk9trCSFCU3p78DY5_v7XdGL1u0W-OvS1LphbEGhHKOHRplEHTiz76StpyXz_gWN60jQbX6Dg0llDK5MNCV9hGysT5ijA/s320/IMG_3372.JPG" title="Climbing Technology RollNLock and Petzl Micro Traxion" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RollNLock and Micro Traxion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
In conclusion: the Micro Traxion might be a proven design (it follows the Pro Traxion and Mini Traxion, which are the same but burlier), but the RollNLock has the same design features (the pulley and the springloaded cam) which results in a same spectrum of use.<br />
<br />
Add to that the more compact package and the lower price, the Climbing Technology is a true competitor of the Micro Traxion and certainly one to consider when you're in the marked for this kind of device!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.climbingtechnology.it/en-US/climbing/use-rope/rollnlock.html?idproduct=989" target="_blank">This link</a> takes you to the Climbing Technology website for the RollNLock.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Disclaimer: the Climbing Technology RollNLock is on loan from the Dutch distributor for the purpose of this review, the Petzl Micro Traxion is my own.</span><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-67995642633195516222013-03-08T12:55:00.000+01:002013-03-08T13:07:16.059+01:00Ice Climbing & Gear AgainLast year I did an ice climbing course for beginners, and I wrote a <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2012/01/ice-climbing-gear.html" target="_blank">blog</a> about the gear I used. This year I got a chance to do the intermediate course, and thought it would be nice to review some of the gear I used again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjlSLXDsU1EcpoglSpBnxjx1Gsos9jbBUzv3aaiA8faD2WjC_7jLHnntJddNRQCnW7XnUETE6RvHXGfelLPCouPLD9r9wwuEuxj-66SaPVDcYu1Po3qGT1PqEQm1_OLvEMdp7QIbPZ6c/s1600/IMG_3081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ice Climbing Gear" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjlSLXDsU1EcpoglSpBnxjx1Gsos9jbBUzv3aaiA8faD2WjC_7jLHnntJddNRQCnW7XnUETE6RvHXGfelLPCouPLD9r9wwuEuxj-66SaPVDcYu1Po3qGT1PqEQm1_OLvEMdp7QIbPZ6c/s400/IMG_3081.JPG" title="Ice Climbing Gear" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This years gear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfXvK3Tn41hV2TYfUQDh4Ufo7OaSPUaX-vfWDGAthHmxrGQEq4JAbeLh-OutGGa2FZS1DrsbpXl9lQ2n1NKW_ULExJHebRoq1-xPMeexz6F2yvVB2TL8kLKBaJFhlZzK9tX072x9ynHk/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfXvK3Tn41hV2TYfUQDh4Ufo7OaSPUaX-vfWDGAthHmxrGQEq4JAbeLh-OutGGa2FZS1DrsbpXl9lQ2n1NKW_ULExJHebRoq1-xPMeexz6F2yvVB2TL8kLKBaJFhlZzK9tX072x9ynHk/s400/IMG_0872.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last years gear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Topics I am going to discuss are tools, boots and gloves.<br />
<br />
The tools I brought was my set of Grivel Quantum Lights. In a <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2012/02/gear-review-grivel-quantum-light-ice.html" target="_blank">review</a> I did of these last year I mentioned they were more suited for alpine ice climbing then waterfall ice. Last year I used them mostly in WI3 grade ice, and they were fine. This year we climbed in steeper and harder ice though (WI4) and I found out it really is better to have axes with a more curved, aggresive shape. You need this in steeper ice as it prevents your hand from getting black and blue (from hitting the ice) and to be better able to reach the top of overhead ledges.<br />
<br />
The difference between my axes and, as an example, Petzl Nomics, can be seen in this picture:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjs8qJm6e6-Wdb_xnu32Yoxr4_c9HC1yLK_622buk1WjviXANF7moeIQHrqR6D5Fg1OJ7Q1f5hrwp0bcZsYsWw8md_z1u4fxc-8ePrR-QuhsXvbzg5nxaoSaoq8Td2rwfts-5Okf3_Ek/s1600/IMG_0902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Grivel Quantum Light and Petzl Nomic" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjs8qJm6e6-Wdb_xnu32Yoxr4_c9HC1yLK_622buk1WjviXANF7moeIQHrqR6D5Fg1OJ7Q1f5hrwp0bcZsYsWw8md_z1u4fxc-8ePrR-QuhsXvbzg5nxaoSaoq8Td2rwfts-5Okf3_Ek/s400/IMG_0902.jpg" title="Grivel Quantum Light and Petzl Nomic" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglN8ANtQRdWGNkB_36pQMxz9Iot5GyuCRyq_-f0o3kTCgnT4K71wJJWCaGoMK8YJhxKACTw0cVRC-nh4X34j2onfgGaW9GuN2di85FBGILTIBwmKTiVtfZcVzLPF7WJSvYn6OZqd6-ZqE/s1600/IMG_0902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
Conclusion: if I'm going to do more steep waterfall ice climbing I'm going to seriously consider renting or buying a set of Petzl Nomic or similar tools. This year I was lucky our guide loaned me a pair.<br />
<br />
On to the boots. Last year I used Hanwag Omega GTX. They were warm, yes, but also quite heavy. So this year I thought I would see if I liked climbing in my Hangwag Ferrata Combi GTX boots. The Ferrata's were quite a bit lighter at 965 grams each, compared to the Omega's 1425 grams each! <br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL8s1ZsUs-YlfexeD4iRdqkM778zA06zdRLvIDZnD7XIbqAuxUgxlCE-XUxi9LI671j6s91J_WBJHOuh-rqToS45YM2zbARfnWqr6BmxgVnOpGSWx6-yIOE0ZiTUpR_YHJHpSnBAhyrp4/s1600/IMG_1518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX and Hanwag Omega GTX" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL8s1ZsUs-YlfexeD4iRdqkM778zA06zdRLvIDZnD7XIbqAuxUgxlCE-XUxi9LI671j6s91J_WBJHOuh-rqToS45YM2zbARfnWqr6BmxgVnOpGSWx6-yIOE0ZiTUpR_YHJHpSnBAhyrp4/s400/IMG_1518.JPG" title="Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX and Hanwag Omega GTX" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ferrata and Omega</td></tr>
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The difference in weight was definately noticable - climbing felt easier. The fact that the sole on the Ferrata is less stiff then the one on the Omega was hardly noticable, at least during ice climbing. There are two reasons I probably won't use the Ferrata's again for ice climbing though. The first is: they're much less warm! During the course we had relatively short days, so I was ok, but I can imagine this becoming an issue during long day or multi-day alpine climbs! The second reason is there's more flex in the sole. For rock this is good, but I found that for the steep snow we encountered during one particular approach it wasn't that great.<br />
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Conclusion: for days in the alpine I'll be wearing my Omega's! Or, I'll have to look for lighter, warm, rigid-soled boots! (Maybe a pair of Scarpa's? Unfortunately La Sportiva's don't fit my feet...)<br />
Oh yeah, both years I used my <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2012/02/gear-review-petzl-lynx-crampons.html" target="_blank">Petzl Lynx</a> crampons, which fit both set of boots.<br />
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Another key piece of gear is gloves. I think I own around 20 pairs of them. Crazy, I know. This year our guide introduced me to the simple winter work glove:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3j6tcVvt5DSdNNXhAd4ZdFZPyhiIaBUyUJW99jJlkH85BihwbTG3K_U5PvEniMcgMCPshH7gNctFIm6yQshqPVZTOxTWPbhAu7kXPEY83JoLDjzJsyJEiTP0nZXTdGc1JAWR6dQnNYw/s1600/IMG_3181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Simatix Thermo Winter Grip winter work glove for ice climbing" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3j6tcVvt5DSdNNXhAd4ZdFZPyhiIaBUyUJW99jJlkH85BihwbTG3K_U5PvEniMcgMCPshH7gNctFIm6yQshqPVZTOxTWPbhAu7kXPEY83JoLDjzJsyJEiTP0nZXTdGc1JAWR6dQnNYw/s400/IMG_3181.JPG" title="Winter Work Glove for Ice Climbing" width="400" /></a></div>
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For waterfall ice climbing they really work! As long as your hands don't get wet, the gloves are warm enough, but also surprisingly dextrous. I doubt they're warm enough for alpine conditions, but for waterfall ice, they're great! And for around 5 euro's (!) per pair, they certainly don't break the bank! I'm wearing them in this picture:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jh0ie42bRBWcVMsNOEha5iZyp-JpPIK4hn-NvMGpDl-NlsNWPANVbJvEfHI6PexSn8T6J8gIWegKGAvwROollcFWiEHMcR6pLuq-GszSBlOJ2WKDPwv8ZkCxwmfsd128-6EpGZvA2mo/s1600/IMG_3186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="At the belay while ice climbing in Autria" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jh0ie42bRBWcVMsNOEha5iZyp-JpPIK4hn-NvMGpDl-NlsNWPANVbJvEfHI6PexSn8T6J8gIWegKGAvwROollcFWiEHMcR6pLuq-GszSBlOJ2WKDPwv8ZkCxwmfsd128-6EpGZvA2mo/s400/IMG_3186.JPG" title="At the belay while ice climbing in Autria" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the belay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLlGlclmdjnmC1b6Y4PoUBKKIfOnE8CfW6GmAp_Us87J8Q-23IDUsdD2mshBo358S8fB2PFnoPXErlKXMCddvA1_baNavFEZuY6hobV13oweO_lJCG-TkwYPrKS4vW1r-hVb77jl8OVU/s1600/aac2f0f6720911e2b2dc22000a9f14bd_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Easy Afternoon WI4 (Luesens)" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLlGlclmdjnmC1b6Y4PoUBKKIfOnE8CfW6GmAp_Us87J8Q-23IDUsdD2mshBo358S8fB2PFnoPXErlKXMCddvA1_baNavFEZuY6hobV13oweO_lJCG-TkwYPrKS4vW1r-hVb77jl8OVU/s320/aac2f0f6720911e2b2dc22000a9f14bd_7.jpg" title="Easy Afternoon" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing Easy Afternoon (WI4)</td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-77886235067811399122012-11-02T10:58:00.000+01:002014-04-07T12:29:00.809+02:00Gear: Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40As part of the Ueli Steck Collection, Mountain Hardwear have created the SummitRocket 40 pack 'for the expedition alpinist pushing the limits with a superlight, high-performance pack with good versatility and volume'. I got to test the updated 2012 version.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwVFMsd6zNs12OhP_YoIy-mRlSPMckU2v2ZNPGPtL3fuZggByO-M6wfUhX444bf8NShVXPj9ZXzOzig78ksZVmMgB_WoH8FGw_p2-Vr7cz9qtNOhVL8OeaE4b4-r5rpr7biMN6wc9_6rA/s1600/IMG_2209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwVFMsd6zNs12OhP_YoIy-mRlSPMckU2v2ZNPGPtL3fuZggByO-M6wfUhX444bf8NShVXPj9ZXzOzig78ksZVmMgB_WoH8FGw_p2-Vr7cz9qtNOhVL8OeaE4b4-r5rpr7biMN6wc9_6rA/s400/IMG_2209.jpg" height="400" title="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 (2013)" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 (2012)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I've used the SummitRocket 40 on a number of trips; I've taken it while alpine rock climbing in the Austrian Alps, while hiking and camping in the Candian Rockies and as my only luggage during a relaxing holiday on Bali - on average the pack has performed very well. <br />
<a name='more'></a>The SummitRocket 40 has won a Gold Outdoor Gear Award in 2011. Mountain Hardwear have updated the model since. The most obvious difference is the pack's closure; the 2011 model had a roll-top closure, while the 2012 model has a zipper closure with a pocket in the lid.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2FCwTaYb2OJIZa96nWgJIJnzZ2iNMs5DrsIrvQlOdG0M9pAZRh_0y8RbDgQQsZuvptZsIA3uNMkiEv5u_N8OL-of8u1gpB8yINnMflkQmh-L7JDwPlDeNVJ3rYfq-oLr2kjMCf0Q9nA/s1600/IMG_2812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 front and side" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2FCwTaYb2OJIZa96nWgJIJnzZ2iNMs5DrsIrvQlOdG0M9pAZRh_0y8RbDgQQsZuvptZsIA3uNMkiEv5u_N8OL-of8u1gpB8yINnMflkQmh-L7JDwPlDeNVJ3rYfq-oLr2kjMCf0Q9nA/s400/IMG_2812.JPG" height="400" title="Front and side of the SummitRocket 40" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front and side of the SummitRocket 40</td></tr>
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It's obvious for me the pack was designed for alpinists. The double haul-loop, the daisy-chains, a good system for carrying ice axes - these are all features an alpine climber appreciates. The sides of the pack feature compression straps, which make it possible to decrease the volume of the pack.<br />
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One thing I would suggest you do if the pack is empty for the most part (including the lid-pocket), is to connect the front and back haul loop with a small carabiner (see example in the picture below). This greatly improves the way the pack carries (and looks), because theres less loose material flopping around.This floppiness is the only thing I really dislike about the pack (luckily theres a fix)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1Y2K1UXSPyFLDEcw6ezzUw2BT4LgwLzVe51HAAvyg2BhIHCH9bTPrDKuX6AXY0EqeGD4w9FWYN_LE_F25golISZYv8OFHgqHdlRo3tZzVVDYGkN5g6FTSX_FQOi_giWEqV40nOSIY5o/s1600/IMG_2820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 connecting the front and back haul loop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1Y2K1UXSPyFLDEcw6ezzUw2BT4LgwLzVe51HAAvyg2BhIHCH9bTPrDKuX6AXY0EqeGD4w9FWYN_LE_F25golISZYv8OFHgqHdlRo3tZzVVDYGkN5g6FTSX_FQOi_giWEqV40nOSIY5o/s400/IMG_2820.JPG" height="400" title="Connecting the front and back haul loop on the SummitRocket 40" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Connecting the front and back haul loop on the SummitRocket 40</td></tr>
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The back of the pack features a foam pad. This adds rigidity to the pack and better transfers the weight of the pack to the hipbelt. Alpinist will appreciate the weight-reducing multi-use aspect of this pad; it acts as: a back-pad, a sit or bivy-pad and if necessary a splint.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0OHvWn4WwZEMo6IIte4qFeY73mQERpSrY34zWf3GU2BpUdTCJ9vJshNiBEdypdN67GE37l7YG-VjV0Hka6D_J7lIEAFTEDSA_Mzd1x40ukmESqMGtq0mx1OYyDjFu3ySE4bJZo2wvl4/s1600/IMG_2814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 suspension system" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0OHvWn4WwZEMo6IIte4qFeY73mQERpSrY34zWf3GU2BpUdTCJ9vJshNiBEdypdN67GE37l7YG-VjV0Hka6D_J7lIEAFTEDSA_Mzd1x40ukmESqMGtq0mx1OYyDjFu3ySE4bJZo2wvl4/s400/IMG_2814.JPG" height="400" title="" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suspension system of the SummitRocket 40 with the hipbelts folded back</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_uSe-_t45f-liIycxMTtc6ubU0ekX3x0ppyoICIQsrvDETzNhx6SsU7PX3Y8tts3EbvU0JM5g36wvSJS2C1w6bQVTct6x0-EuauBW8Cu5ftSQNC_WiIC4SlJv-pgwKeROngx5SM6bm8/s1600/IMG_2815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 foam pad suspension" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_uSe-_t45f-liIycxMTtc6ubU0ekX3x0ppyoICIQsrvDETzNhx6SsU7PX3Y8tts3EbvU0JM5g36wvSJS2C1w6bQVTct6x0-EuauBW8Cu5ftSQNC_WiIC4SlJv-pgwKeROngx5SM6bm8/s400/IMG_2815.JPG" height="400" title="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 foam pad suspension" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foam Pad and the system to keep it in place</td></tr>
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When walking up to an alpine hut I've carried loads of around 10-12 kilo's in relative comfort in this pack. At first glance the suspension systems almost looks to be <i>too</i> lightweight to do the job, but it's not. It's just light, but also gets the job done. The hip-belt is fairly minimal, but not uncomfortable. The same goes for the shoulder straps. Carrying stability is increased by the sternum strap and load lifter straps.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2G34qLeLCV9lcJdB4Tz1rMGZuMzmNMjgzfy_qqfA83df2Lux-zR1alS_pufotVT6vUCRqqY57WpZoMHm69a1IGGRDqHwMQb64AEa0TrAKUdrvkxgd8mRjLBy5XdeTJhQPTx994tPa1tg/s1600/IMG_2822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40 suspension 2" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2G34qLeLCV9lcJdB4Tz1rMGZuMzmNMjgzfy_qqfA83df2Lux-zR1alS_pufotVT6vUCRqqY57WpZoMHm69a1IGGRDqHwMQb64AEa0TrAKUdrvkxgd8mRjLBy5XdeTJhQPTx994tPa1tg/s400/IMG_2822.JPG" height="400" title="" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A better view of the SummitRocket 40's suspension system</td></tr>
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The volume of the pack is big enough to carry all the required gear for three-day camping/climbing trip or a week-long trip if you're staying in alpine huts. The SummitRocket 40 doesnt have side pockets or a big stow pocket on the back. Off course this influences the total volume. But, if you consider what this pack was made for, alpine climbing, it makes sense these features weren't added - if you're climbing in a narrow chimney, those sidepockets can get caught behind rock. Also the narrow/slim profile increased your agility when climbing.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRAxUrweOKm9EgogCbqiZQl2HLeZ0gvxFfwHNtK7Ktbo_-XqZYMmTnInEzRi3P5oq5DTocXgiHHF9-V6EvPJjVcw8MG6241a5pcBOuDQpdtKR7rXHiAgKk4OnN0CZkS-aszn_SnNirzcQ/s1600/IMG_2827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRAxUrweOKm9EgogCbqiZQl2HLeZ0gvxFfwHNtK7Ktbo_-XqZYMmTnInEzRi3P5oq5DTocXgiHHF9-V6EvPJjVcw8MG6241a5pcBOuDQpdtKR7rXHiAgKk4OnN0CZkS-aszn_SnNirzcQ/s400/IMG_2827.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A close up of the material the SummitRocket 40 is made of</td></tr>
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The SummitRocket is made of a mix of fabrics. The white fabric is a type of Cuben, which is a light and waterproof material. While the pack's not officially waterproof, I've used it in moderate rain, and the contents of the pack stayed dry. After some use I found the bottom of the pack, which is made of that white fabric, starts to look a bit dirty. Nothing too terrible though.<br />
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Some pictures of the pack in use: <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQOEo1wVgy8XDMIspH3mj6F5UN0_e1ez0oZHyc5cq2ZsJxM3qxr7UTwKwN9oy_Wb5kBo0LhlCX7k5BoV6CigHsSTfrCEDr3rwwNF07L0_cW1HRVNsw1Am-9nSpR7HdsNzyfxQh1BUXWk/s1600/IMG_2959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Scrambling on Penon de la Mata in Spain" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQOEo1wVgy8XDMIspH3mj6F5UN0_e1ez0oZHyc5cq2ZsJxM3qxr7UTwKwN9oy_Wb5kBo0LhlCX7k5BoV6CigHsSTfrCEDr3rwwNF07L0_cW1HRVNsw1Am-9nSpR7HdsNzyfxQh1BUXWk/s400/IMG_2959.JPG" height="300" title="" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scrambling in the Sierra de Huetor near Granada, Spain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhad9OG9inuTY3fLvrjJhznw3WmLZYXaBYRygmwuENS9SmhH8Nr6aGsJYVYL7GcNb5HmBBqUb6f_CQYEknkUB51S0_yi6hRTmKLyk2Kgwe9U02UBPIGhJZQxUbsR46q9JWtKE7I_KE30PI/s1600/IMG_2383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mountaineering on Mt Cline near Banff in Canada" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhad9OG9inuTY3fLvrjJhznw3WmLZYXaBYRygmwuENS9SmhH8Nr6aGsJYVYL7GcNb5HmBBqUb6f_CQYEknkUB51S0_yi6hRTmKLyk2Kgwe9U02UBPIGhJZQxUbsR46q9JWtKE7I_KE30PI/s400/IMG_2383.JPG" height="400" title="" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountaineering in the Canadian Rockies (near Banff)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSlmtk4FcUf_hJdxeQf4OIvIpKFmdCgm8HzaX6uAejBYExZJtBdjbPZC-8gk-o1D7JqelxFyo-nfOdIJGzQP7Lwq8kyvacgKe1XK_CHPlaJc0uLIWStrGjttdx6wpgvfpAU40MMN_1Utk/s1600/IMG_2265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Alpine Rock on the Kaunergrat in Austria" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSlmtk4FcUf_hJdxeQf4OIvIpKFmdCgm8HzaX6uAejBYExZJtBdjbPZC-8gk-o1D7JqelxFyo-nfOdIJGzQP7Lwq8kyvacgKe1XK_CHPlaJc0uLIWStrGjttdx6wpgvfpAU40MMN_1Utk/s400/IMG_2265.jpg" height="300" title="" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpine Rock in Austria (Kaunergrat)</td></tr>
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Disclaimer: the pack was provided for the purpose of inclusion in a 'state of the market report' of 40 liter climbing packs in the Dutch climbing magazine Hoogtelijn, for which I am an editor. I liked the pack, so I decided to write an review on my own blog as well. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejEBBxykYqmKRNDZaC3aaLVvZvqjBW5NVGwKs_3KfP0rpqa4gh0hSENvfUZebL3Y4NqHpur9j9Mv71tldyNHh3lG_4LkVd6ITXH4VFEeE8ZJgQQ3HLGoNf_xGnIewrny99JRdMbBxbco/s1600/IMG_2824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="beerbottle opener on the Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 40" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejEBBxykYqmKRNDZaC3aaLVvZvqjBW5NVGwKs_3KfP0rpqa4gh0hSENvfUZebL3Y4NqHpur9j9Mv71tldyNHh3lG_4LkVd6ITXH4VFEeE8ZJgQQ3HLGoNf_xGnIewrny99JRdMbBxbco/s320/IMG_2824.JPG" height="240" title="" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basic Alpine Essentials: a beer pottle opener</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-85946855615687252612012-09-15T21:20:00.000+02:002012-09-15T21:38:02.592+02:00Banff, Alberta, Canada. Nice, eh?A while ago, I was asked by <a href="http://nkbv.nl/hoogtelijn/inhoudsopgave">Hoogtelijn</a>, the magazine of the NKBV, to go to Alberta, Canada to write an article about the Canadian Rockies. I spent most of my time in Canada in Banff National Park. Although the article will only be published in a few months time, I've been back for a week now, and thought I'd share a few of the highlights of the trip with you;<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA8pWZ1xi7-zeyMTFGAys9bmAqHvZ0fijjaoGN2FR8OreZW90b7TWubTxcXi0RMBz4WTclOBGNraBfEoNHNG7bHqzPuHSbspmXGeYNJ8vLjWwob4OO0V-zD2TAJXFxmQuoRmHTp4tIYg/s1600/foto(5).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA8pWZ1xi7-zeyMTFGAys9bmAqHvZ0fijjaoGN2FR8OreZW90b7TWubTxcXi0RMBz4WTclOBGNraBfEoNHNG7bHqzPuHSbspmXGeYNJ8vLjWwob4OO0V-zD2TAJXFxmQuoRmHTp4tIYg/s320/foto(5).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is me on the summit of Mt. Cline, which is 3361 meters (or 11027
feet) high, and lies on the border of Banff National Park and the Wild
Goat Wilderness Area</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPR8upmrVsov3n5fGxTA5LXyVey1Zs8Y5ftjrbeb0l_p172ot_eYfHKufYYTroZR8piEns8hb3_GNgUvGstLhyphenhyphenNYA_lp47ZOfRutVhKx-sJmwxLyeW9bVWpEW5cAjzr_vpjPKsnSfHpLE/s1600/foto(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPR8upmrVsov3n5fGxTA5LXyVey1Zs8Y5ftjrbeb0l_p172ot_eYfHKufYYTroZR8piEns8hb3_GNgUvGstLhyphenhyphenNYA_lp47ZOfRutVhKx-sJmwxLyeW9bVWpEW5cAjzr_vpjPKsnSfHpLE/s320/foto(4).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is me after topping out on Gooseberry (YDS 5.9 variation) on Tunnel Mountain near the town of Banff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPEkAkj3mA_t5oWm8p4UsUDnoJghoLwKwg5kXX2xiU6u9-TEuJ0R9g1VCkOxvgxd1lHHt8zSn2IJa8ruPRgFkXqyH3VASM9j2hTuXqpzVJi4nXuFcigfUxOMqIDJNeZcnRhA4B0GLiVeE/s1600/foto(3).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPEkAkj3mA_t5oWm8p4UsUDnoJghoLwKwg5kXX2xiU6u9-TEuJ0R9g1VCkOxvgxd1lHHt8zSn2IJa8ruPRgFkXqyH3VASM9j2hTuXqpzVJi4nXuFcigfUxOMqIDJNeZcnRhA4B0GLiVeE/s320/foto(3).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is me on Sentinel Pass, which is the high point of a nice day-hike
from Moraine Lake, near Lake Louise. Going up you get great views of the
Valley of the Ten Peaks. The pass is the start point for the normal
(scramble) route up Mt. Temple, the East Ridge of Mt. Temple is
considered one of the '50 Classic Climbs of North America'. Now why didn't I do that!?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The trip was organised by TravelAlberta, with help from Yamnuska Mountain Adventures and the Canadian Alpine Club. <br />
<br />
Needless to say I've enjoyed my time in Alberta, Canada immensly. Maybe we'll do the next trip in the winter, TravelAlberta?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-50959431739198370852012-06-22T20:06:00.000+02:002012-06-22T20:30:37.332+02:00Rock Climbing & GearI should specify; this blog is about <i>Sports</i> rock climbing gear. Because I've done some sports climbing recently in Belgium, I thought I'd share on what I usually bring on multi-pitch sports climbing (i.e. bolted) routes.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi3N0ihS2T2UYZ7YRU9iiefRv-qyBTTaEqHUCVOsO_SzOiwKoGx_TGf97sGUIvDNQvu_Oqgr3zVWUC-4FZ9scJyLfJTA3bbfVoA6uiFO-pJmph1v4Wy22S_6QRR_Fpas1eCbKd4UuFekA/s1600/IMG_1987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi3N0ihS2T2UYZ7YRU9iiefRv-qyBTTaEqHUCVOsO_SzOiwKoGx_TGf97sGUIvDNQvu_Oqgr3zVWUC-4FZ9scJyLfJTA3bbfVoA6uiFO-pJmph1v4Wy22S_6QRR_Fpas1eCbKd4UuFekA/s400/IMG_1987.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">some gear in use on a training wall; an anchor using the climbing rope</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>Apart from the obvious;<br />
<ul>
<li>a harness,</li>
<li>rock climbing shoes </li>
<li>and a helmet</li>
</ul>
I bring the following;<br />
<ul>
<li>depending on how many the route requires, I bring a number of quick-draws, varying in length. Made using a Wild Country Astro and a Wild Country Helium.</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSH6D_oiQYptOZ988RRgpPoWp-6upXRUHtO9HbowDiTROq3dZ3Lfots2AkoooiHbsVxdmoT4rfP51YFI7nA2uR6J4zvkscsvjKgl6fGIovE1il_Ab_qnQ7TLJ5NFMG5F-e2BUft83g1k/s1600/IMG_2037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Quick Draw" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSH6D_oiQYptOZ988RRgpPoWp-6upXRUHtO9HbowDiTROq3dZ3Lfots2AkoooiHbsVxdmoT4rfP51YFI7nA2uR6J4zvkscsvjKgl6fGIovE1il_Ab_qnQ7TLJ5NFMG5F-e2BUft83g1k/s400/IMG_2037.JPG" title="Quick Draw" width="400" /></a></div>
Quick Draws</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li>for when I need to make an anchor (belay station, relais, stand), I bring</li>
<ul>
<li>a quick draw I keep seperate from the other quick draws. This one is different in that it has a Wild Country Helium to clip to the bolt (I later use this to fix the rope to, so It's nice to have a larger 'biner). On the bottom there's a DMM Revolver wire-gate biner. I'm still experimenting with this, but in theory it should be handy when i need to haul something</li>
<li>a small screwgate carabiner (<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.nl/2012/03/gear-review-lightest-screwgate.html" target="_blank">Grivel Plume Nut K3N</a>) with a dyneema sling (Mammut Contact 120 8mm) </li>
<li>a regular sized screwgate carabiner (Petzl Attache 3D)</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiC6hVRmpZ8TIRhOSlKsczfmFPvH2MVwx2_nkD5hMgPK8lKrBksCpK1HnniYWC24KnN3PdvK7WBpikz6g_AEzr9MFTGpT4nUmGiA4zvfv-qrIBw1Dd_ZBlRHUBR7ev4L3aCkojg3nr2E8/s1600/IMG_2039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiC6hVRmpZ8TIRhOSlKsczfmFPvH2MVwx2_nkD5hMgPK8lKrBksCpK1HnniYWC24KnN3PdvK7WBpikz6g_AEzr9MFTGpT4nUmGiA4zvfv-qrIBw1Dd_ZBlRHUBR7ev4L3aCkojg3nr2E8/s400/IMG_2039.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gear to make an anchor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li> If I need to attach myself to a bolt or anchor, I use</li>
<ul>
<li>an anchor sling (Metolius PAS 22), which I always have girth-hitched to my harness (I also own and use a Grivel Daisy Chain, which is as good as the Metolius)</li>
<li>a regular sized carabiner (DMM Sentinel)</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTiF8HEsuPOT52Sz9_RFJHQ1Q80Cr15uBXEnUb3QkJwLgzIGkH7NmmoVn4WIM4Kmczz8iv8v64LDbfQ4vtjw-kj4JV82pbTt4qiGqqGrEjMMmFhsHih5hI9t7fSADBzhqVf3s1pSKMUAY/s1600/IMG_2038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Metolius PAS 22 & DMM Sentinel" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTiF8HEsuPOT52Sz9_RFJHQ1Q80Cr15uBXEnUb3QkJwLgzIGkH7NmmoVn4WIM4Kmczz8iv8v64LDbfQ4vtjw-kj4JV82pbTt4qiGqqGrEjMMmFhsHih5hI9t7fSADBzhqVf3s1pSKMUAY/s400/IMG_2038.JPG" title="Metolius PAS 22 & DMM Sentinel" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metolius PAS 22 & DMM Sentinel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li> To belay another climber, or to abseil (rappel), I use</li>
<ul>
<li>a small screwgate carabiner (Grivel Plume Nut K3N)</li>
<li>a belay device (Petzl Reverso 4)</li>
<li>a regular sized screwgate carabiner (Petzl Attache 3D) </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTx3qW5BkBpo2jP9Ww7yqe5FIJrJvlFpP9G7V7qrvPztyIuTclHlna8NlelLfM-_2_S9pazrjyBGquDdkdlwMC8ahLfP1hgtpOzM7qXVdgwvr83Haury5pDrXUwMfxUyPgYEfAgwTfSQ4/s1600/IMG_2041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTx3qW5BkBpo2jP9Ww7yqe5FIJrJvlFpP9G7V7qrvPztyIuTclHlna8NlelLfM-_2_S9pazrjyBGquDdkdlwMC8ahLfP1hgtpOzM7qXVdgwvr83Haury5pDrXUwMfxUyPgYEfAgwTfSQ4/s400/IMG_2041.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grivel Plume Nut K3N, Petzl Reverso 4, Petzl Attache 3D</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li> When I do an abseil, I use a back-up, consisting of</li>
<ul>
<li>a prusik loop (Edelrid Aramid 6mm sewn prusik sling)</li>
<li>a screwgate carabiner, in this case a DMM Revolver screwgate, the revolver has a pulley built in to it, which allows it to be used more efficiently in hauling/rescue</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7LCXTZCBRWMcMGem1ao0Bu2y-UsqfyqOh-Y5ztUUHgoy4dqt689TXwXzRY7gA7fnW2LcrPVFynKpge3OzibdOFL_5DF2OCN4f0DV_w0clSLhPgPfV80IpWCkFjejE1Vf53gO-fSseRYQ/s1600/IMG_2042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Edelrid Aramid 6mm sling (30cm) & DMM Revolver screwgate" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7LCXTZCBRWMcMGem1ao0Bu2y-UsqfyqOh-Y5ztUUHgoy4dqt689TXwXzRY7gA7fnW2LcrPVFynKpge3OzibdOFL_5DF2OCN4f0DV_w0clSLhPgPfV80IpWCkFjejE1Vf53gO-fSseRYQ/s400/IMG_2042.JPG" title="Edelrid Aramid 6mm sling (30cm) & DMM Revolver screwgate" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edelrid Aramid 6mm sling (30cm) & DMM Revolver screwgate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li> Finally, I bring a spare screwgate carabiner with some spare odds & ends, such as</li>
<ul>
<li>an extra small screwgate carabiner (Grivel Plume Nut K3N)</li>
<li>2 small wiregate carabiners (Camp Nano 23) - to hold some gear or if I need to make a Garda hitch</li>
<li>an extra prusik loop (about 25 cm 5mm cord) - this has various uses, but in any case it's good to have a spare prusik, should you drop one</li>
<li>a small knife (Spyderco Ladybug) - always handy</li>
<li>a Petzl TiBloc - good to have in (self-) rescue situations</li>
<li>an extra Mammut Contact 120 sling - various uses</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiagqcfahLPflrsdCjvYHJcqLiege_HsBS7VOq1lXyR5RaVsoZc3-p60UFox27vajUoLWtBEjrN5MWaj-7ycjSfJw4y8xQeMCAzRfRDYjRkWuv813bLKC6O3ax4HhL4ZDdV0QOnVQvTY/s1600/IMG_2045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Odd and Ends - Grivel Plume Nut K3N, Camp Nano 23, Petzl TiBloc, Mammut Contact 120 sling" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiagqcfahLPflrsdCjvYHJcqLiege_HsBS7VOq1lXyR5RaVsoZc3-p60UFox27vajUoLWtBEjrN5MWaj-7ycjSfJw4y8xQeMCAzRfRDYjRkWuv813bLKC6O3ax4HhL4ZDdV0QOnVQvTY/s400/IMG_2045.JPG" title="Odd and Ends - Grivel Plume Nut K3N, Camp Nano 23, Petzl TiBloc, Mammut Contact 120 sling" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">odds and ends - Grivel Plume Nut K3N, Camp Nano 23, Petzl TiBloc, Mammut sling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When I get more into other styles of climbing (e.g. trad), I'll do another post on gear. <br />
<br />
Not all the gear I use can be found easily in the Netherlands (where I live), so here's some tips:<br />
<br />
the DMM Revolver is available at <a href="http://klimwinkel.nl/catalog/revolver-screwgate-p-718.html">Klimwinkel.nl</a> <br />
the Grivel Plume Nuts I got in the U.K. (not cheap though...) - <a href="http://www.macmountaineering.co.uk/acatalog/Grivel_Plume_Screw_Lock.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
the Camp Nano 23 I also got in the U.K. - <a href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Standard-Karabiners/Nano-23-CAM-NAN23">here</a><br />
the Edelrid Aramid sling is available at <a href="http://klimwinkel.nl/catalog/edelrid-aramide-slings-p-808.html">Klimwinkel.nl</a> <br />
the Metolius Personal Anchor Sling (PAS 22) I got in the U.S., I couldn't find it in europe - the comparable Grivel Daisy Chain is available at <a href="http://klimwinkel.nl/catalog/grivel-standplaats-slinge-p-551.html">Klimwinkel.nl</a><br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-42256139052005855312012-05-26T16:11:00.002+02:002013-08-05T11:02:27.483+02:00Gear: Butterfly WalletA 7 gram wallet. Really? Really. It's the <a href="http://butterflywallet.com/sieto78/homepagead">Butterfly Wallet</a>.<br />
Apparently it's been around for a while, but I'd never seen it before, until I stumbled on it by chance.<br />
This is it:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0OTm3jDKlCqwVphiJr7pytESDQhawpUHhWdvQKpK0PtANUsrfICmUvtRcc4eu7XdSiPdxDqi2FDjySMj6zUHvltjqTqo_gO2SQdNPCvDtZm_gL1Cxgxz-eeSeOFDbJqtMJykH95Ozno/s1600/IMG_1929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Butterfly Wallet Coupon" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0OTm3jDKlCqwVphiJr7pytESDQhawpUHhWdvQKpK0PtANUsrfICmUvtRcc4eu7XdSiPdxDqi2FDjySMj6zUHvltjqTqo_gO2SQdNPCvDtZm_gL1Cxgxz-eeSeOFDbJqtMJykH95Ozno/s400/IMG_1929.JPG" title="Butterfly Wallet" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Butterfly Wallet</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Looking for the 10% discount coupon code? Click '<i>read more</i>' or see below!</div>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>This wallet probably isn't for everybody, but for lightweight enthousiasts - climbers, hikers etc., they're great. Very easy to take with you on a climb. They weigh only 7 grams, have three segments for cards (in the picture above there are 3 cards in every segment, and the wallet still folds up easily) and has one segment for cash (bills, that is).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLsiwMBvnr4IWQQXiA9WRN6zK-4jNojdwrk_lo8zg0iR3Qa4GZdjrCU96EGmMdyv6d7yFJYCdOIZLv5pCMD5W4koRMa2Z7A_ERxoeb29i9MCC4flBOZhVw6xM9K1ui5GHHjx90Ncm1ig/s1600/IMG_1926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Butterfly Wallet Coupon Code" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLsiwMBvnr4IWQQXiA9WRN6zK-4jNojdwrk_lo8zg0iR3Qa4GZdjrCU96EGmMdyv6d7yFJYCdOIZLv5pCMD5W4koRMa2Z7A_ERxoeb29i9MCC4flBOZhVw6xM9K1ui5GHHjx90Ncm1ig/s400/IMG_1926.JPG" title="7 gram wallet" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proof: a wallet that weighs only 7 grams</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
They come in various colors, black, blue, purple, and a few others. Personally, I like the 'sky blue' color.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzc5jcDNHpBCVJF-sKye0OgS1KT1lcQUozE2mQ9vEOWN76QznTOvXNPOIFkavO3HTZL9Se6942Pjh7buK_-wq9ck2pgbecj0rGFDC7zwxGa7y0qtR1GS3z6aaDI-uQ2jcg2GLOYfCOJ8/s1600/IMG_1930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="butterfly wallet coupon code" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzc5jcDNHpBCVJF-sKye0OgS1KT1lcQUozE2mQ9vEOWN76QznTOvXNPOIFkavO3HTZL9Se6942Pjh7buK_-wq9ck2pgbecj0rGFDC7zwxGa7y0qtR1GS3z6aaDI-uQ2jcg2GLOYfCOJ8/s400/IMG_1930.JPG" title="blue butterfly wallet" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 'sky blue' Butterfly Wallet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, what's not to like. It's light - it's only 7 grams. It's compact - it's the smallest wallet I've ever owned. And it's cheap - only $14,95!<br />
<br />
Update: there now is an updated version of the Butterfly Wallet available. I was sent one to review, and will update this post in the near future. <br />
<br />
Want a 10% discount? Copy the coupon code <a href="https://butterflywallet.com/sieto78/homepagead" target="_blank">EXPBW10</a> and go the Butterfly Wallet <a href="https://butterflywallet.com/sieto78/homepagead" target="_blank">website</a>.<br />
<br />
If you like the discount and are going to use the code, please give something back by going to the website via the affiliate <a href="http://butterflywallet.com/sieto78/homepagead">link</a>. You still get that 10% off, but I benefit a little at the same time for no extra effort or cost on your part. Thank you!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://butterflywallet.com/sieto78/homepagead" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Butterfly Wallet Coupon Code" height="250" src="http://butterflywallet.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/BP_online_300x250_PNG8.png" title="Butterfly Wallet Coupon Code" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this Banner will take you to the Butterfly Wallet website</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://butterflywallet.com/sieto78/redwallets"><img height="191" src="http://butterflywallet.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/red_wallet_285pxwide_OPT.png" width="285" /> </a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">oh yes, it comes in red now, too!</span> <br />
<span style="color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-24629368754435890632012-05-25T14:31:00.001+02:002013-08-05T10:48:41.464+02:00How to make an Alpine Quick DrawI thought I'd do a quick blog on how to make an alpine quick draw.<br />
An alpine quick draw is different from a sports-climbing one, because it has a longer, extendable sling. The long sling can be very usefull, but you don't wan't a 60cm long sling hanging from your harness.<br />
But, what <i>do</i> you do with it? <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTd5Rr-gZBHHe0eNypYLg1VRBdkgsDEl1LtW4TCakRJId8tSRQY9H-Dom7fwCcjJJ-UkgEXBPK28XG_3RTfABjRyS7hPG1owiC2mG8eQ8QpfDxdABkVBJ5gsa3IUbV7Vxt_kuvlVcRQAQ/s1600/IMG_1528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Alpine Quick Draw" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTd5Rr-gZBHHe0eNypYLg1VRBdkgsDEl1LtW4TCakRJId8tSRQY9H-Dom7fwCcjJJ-UkgEXBPK28XG_3RTfABjRyS7hPG1owiC2mG8eQ8QpfDxdABkVBJ5gsa3IUbV7Vxt_kuvlVcRQAQ/s400/IMG_1528.JPG" title="Alpine Quick Draw" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpine Quick Draw </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>I make them with a 60cm Mammut Contact Dyneema sling, a Wild Country Astro wire-gate carabiner (small) and a Wild Country Helium wire-gate carabiner (large) and I usually fix the sling to the large carabiner. Extended this draw is 60cm long, not extended it's about 15cm.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkFAQ_zmsxknJxYLfVxtFyICdZfnhcVMINTufaGd6DWeJnHBRhwNLAdpL3nsvZ_b2rIacuOpEhKhH_6zkZe2dSocrYxClhD-5j49KhkLq3v5yjXIm4E4k5CaCXLoCj77j4s-vYymxPoM/s1600/IMG_1525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="step 1 on how to make an alpine quick draw" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkFAQ_zmsxknJxYLfVxtFyICdZfnhcVMINTufaGd6DWeJnHBRhwNLAdpL3nsvZ_b2rIacuOpEhKhH_6zkZe2dSocrYxClhD-5j49KhkLq3v5yjXIm4E4k5CaCXLoCj77j4s-vYymxPoM/s320/IMG_1525.JPG" title="step 1 on how to make an alpine quick draw" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">step 1: bring the ends of a fully extend alpine quick draw to each other</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqEsn_i3Q8hkyYDwyYtTe_rhAjK8mohmc5WYnjyjJgvR4KPgjnrOo2-0n5S4e_y1Gy1_5VUhtVOFgA5uS7YsaxklagUJkdBfacU9P66gE57-XiYfmzOvF3DonfXIh6ngXNhyvqFjZXjg/s1600/IMG_1526+-+kopie.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="step 2 on how to make an alpine quick draw" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqEsn_i3Q8hkyYDwyYtTe_rhAjK8mohmc5WYnjyjJgvR4KPgjnrOo2-0n5S4e_y1Gy1_5VUhtVOFgA5uS7YsaxklagUJkdBfacU9P66gE57-XiYfmzOvF3DonfXIh6ngXNhyvqFjZXjg/s320/IMG_1526+-+kopie.JPG" title="step 2 on how to make an alpine quick draw" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">step 2: move the large carabiner through the small one</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiru2T_BuNCTJw6YL6T4bMcbpWebl2NSLwfaeMBhDIJio9uptEF6IaOkyXxcylfKwnHdnu6cnDvyohBZAxfmGTAMkx78l4JMEXFaX1isJt2msOwBfEKpsZV4x1niez61hd_XlwJPeyYYi8/s1600/IMG_1527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="step 3 on how to make an alpine quick draw" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiru2T_BuNCTJw6YL6T4bMcbpWebl2NSLwfaeMBhDIJio9uptEF6IaOkyXxcylfKwnHdnu6cnDvyohBZAxfmGTAMkx78l4JMEXFaX1isJt2msOwBfEKpsZV4x1niez61hd_XlwJPeyYYi8/s320/IMG_1527.JPG" title="step 3 on how to make an alpine quick draw" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">step 3: clip the loop that has formed with the large carabiner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXoJYGsp8Gz5yicISYJcVQc1xyzNyHBgdOWAHmw5HbVyb1WRagrKd-dPo1de1wNzezLKwfO2Am3GLCncSPOjp1JupE4Ttg9PAV3-0fsom_CGiJ-CmeUmrR_aAgHYiSmCA8hdhgL8dwhs/s1600/IMG_1528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="step 4 on how to make an alpine quick draw" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXoJYGsp8Gz5yicISYJcVQc1xyzNyHBgdOWAHmw5HbVyb1WRagrKd-dPo1de1wNzezLKwfO2Am3GLCncSPOjp1JupE4Ttg9PAV3-0fsom_CGiJ-CmeUmrR_aAgHYiSmCA8hdhgL8dwhs/s320/IMG_1528.JPG" title="step 4 on how to make an alpine quick draw" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">step 4: pull on both carabiners in opposite directions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
et voila!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
I use the small carabiner to clip in to protection. If you need the draw extended, unclip the loose ends of the sling from the large carabiner (this is the one the rope will run through).<br />
<br />
edit: please take care when using a rubber keep-the-sling-in-its-place-holder-thingy. Make sure you don't weight the extended quick-draw on only that thingy. Please watch this <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=20" target="_blank">video</a> to see what I'm talking about. </div>
<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-90850922287780906412012-05-17T12:54:00.000+02:002013-08-05T11:04:47.061+02:00Gear: Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTXI've been using a pair of solid mountaineering boots, the Hanwag Omega GTX. These keep my feet warm enough down to -15c, and will take an automatic crampon. I used them for <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-gear.html" target="_blank">ice climbing</a> last february. However, these boots can be a bit overkill for three season use and/or places where there's not so much snow or ice. So, I decided I needed another pair of boots for those conditions. <br />
I got a pair of the Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTGZM7P1MeAF5WqwZTWCKjOm8GYpBQHhdNiLt_Q-XCaWJyqotWvgm4x33klO0K-cpNHZ5ehyHeZBdiBoKYysZDOq0hsOqEqZRIf_fg0RnHIcfXC6aq7CLQYHpM5U9khz-esAzUQyUVH98/s1600/IMG_1326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTGZM7P1MeAF5WqwZTWCKjOm8GYpBQHhdNiLt_Q-XCaWJyqotWvgm4x33klO0K-cpNHZ5ehyHeZBdiBoKYysZDOq0hsOqEqZRIf_fg0RnHIcfXC6aq7CLQYHpM5U9khz-esAzUQyUVH98/s400/IMG_1326.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>Hanwag describes these boots as <span style="font-family: inherit;">'the alpine version of the Ferrata GTX: perfect for Via Ferratas in alpine terrain with glacier and firn section'. So, these should be good in rock, and not too bad on some easy ice and snow.</span><br />
<br />
I tested them during a 4 day trip to Spains Sierra Nevada mountains. Highlights of this trip were an ascent of Mulhacen (3482m) and a day of scrambling on the Peñón de la Mata (1669m). The day on Mulhacen presented some easy hiking on rock and snow, the day on the Peñón was grade 1 to 3 scrambling. Good terrain to give the Ferrata Combi GTX'es a test-run. They did not disappoint.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4n2IXepjuz69E6rNS-uUXWtXjCDChYgOIYTK5488XMbZBc77hV-JYe943UHTW2QSEbNX0ecENb1Mv4i6xjBZ7plM_L7GyLK89wWD-B20czzZCg64yvEbsgtI6vJkVNH8BfpFOAUoyENI/s1600/536538_10151057474504325_824414324_13079674_1391006869_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4n2IXepjuz69E6rNS-uUXWtXjCDChYgOIYTK5488XMbZBc77hV-JYe943UHTW2QSEbNX0ecENb1Mv4i6xjBZ7plM_L7GyLK89wWD-B20czzZCg64yvEbsgtI6vJkVNH8BfpFOAUoyENI/s400/536538_10151057474504325_824414324_13079674_1391006869_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX on Mulhacen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKj2BkBZTbgM45HuiGX-ZjnP9aQbLeGUEc1rahtgctPRkfEIz9KN0tiIz-jG5FbaS_ByCjESkygyhS_KjzapjVxHn6blrZOJ2-lQtmHHsuWo2zmCh_QyfhE7hBXqVwBJ07sboLtxNVqHQ/s1600/543670_386621418042697_193758913995616_1049284_693270854_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKj2BkBZTbgM45HuiGX-ZjnP9aQbLeGUEc1rahtgctPRkfEIz9KN0tiIz-jG5FbaS_ByCjESkygyhS_KjzapjVxHn6blrZOJ2-lQtmHHsuWo2zmCh_QyfhE7hBXqVwBJ07sboLtxNVqHQ/s400/543670_386621418042697_193758913995616_1049284_693270854_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX worn while scrambling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When I first tried them on, I found them to be much tighter at the top of the foot, as compared to my Omega's. At first I found this slightly uncomfortable, but I also realized this would improve the responsiveness of the boot, as it's much more secure and close fitting on the foot.<br />
<br />
While hiking I could immediately tell these boots are about half a kilo lighter then my old boots. The Hanwag Omega GTX weigh 1425 grams each for a size 46 EU, the Ferrata Combi GTX weigh 965 grams for a size 46,5 EU. This weight includes a green Superfeet after market insole, to replace the standard Hanwag one. The hiking was much easier going. When walking I didn't notice the tightness at the top of the foot anymore.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0LmK_75TDLYT6xsJ76Vpq54W_D_dSFt9Q8G282_BBSTdzMoM49wwlLR2OSrMsS__m6ym9UOQQetG_Nvj_5YiBdsOjgkMmPyYGrnb5VhyRE3sBhwtQll9XFgd4UAz6To_NgxwJmKhcFA/s1600/IMG_1518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Hanwag Omega GTX and Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0LmK_75TDLYT6xsJ76Vpq54W_D_dSFt9Q8G282_BBSTdzMoM49wwlLR2OSrMsS__m6ym9UOQQetG_Nvj_5YiBdsOjgkMmPyYGrnb5VhyRE3sBhwtQll9XFgd4UAz6To_NgxwJmKhcFA/s400/IMG_1518.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanwag Omega GTX and Hanwag Ferrata Combi GT </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While scrambling I appreciated the rubber rim that's present all around the shoe. When you jam your foot in crack for a better hold, the rubber both increases friction and also protects the boots. Also, on the front of the sole there's a 'climbing zone', which basically is just a flat part of the sole with no thread. This zone also increases friction, when using it to climb.<br />
<br />
I also fitted a pair of crampons on them, and they will hold a semi-automatic crampon easily. The sole is even rigid enough for decent performance, although they'll probably won't be top-performers for waterfall ice-climbing. On glaciers and moderate terrain you'll be fine though.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAjTU_BOIjy0GQvtcYD81ULwmNqn5DhEldWg9Pb8ZZGtHAuJIA-OUcYsQ_rnmllXKzT4BnrHE9wtiirJgb0_OdOCLuiG2vmlRW9N4bfYAphG1GNNvaO3Rqy9mt23Zow_IL9TT9Eita7_U/s1600/IMG_0865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Petzl Lynx on Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAjTU_BOIjy0GQvtcYD81ULwmNqn5DhEldWg9Pb8ZZGtHAuJIA-OUcYsQ_rnmllXKzT4BnrHE9wtiirJgb0_OdOCLuiG2vmlRW9N4bfYAphG1GNNvaO3Rqy9mt23Zow_IL9TT9Eita7_U/s400/IMG_0865.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petzl Lynx on Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All things considered I'm very happy with these boots, and how they perform. I hope to use them a lot in the future!<br />
<br />
If you liked this post, please support this blog by buying your gear via this link:
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-881882215112973382012-03-09T15:27:00.000+01:002013-08-05T11:05:56.780+02:00Gear: Lightest Screwgate Carabiner In The World by GrivelUsually in the title of a post I mention the name of the product I review. But in this case it's the 'Grivel Plume Nut K3N'. Really, what kind of a name is that!? Wild Country Neon - yes. Camp Nano - yes. 'Plume Nut K3N' - how in the world is that in any way descriptive of the World's Lightest Screwgate Carabiner?<br />
Anyway. I digress.<br />
<br />
As you might have guessed by now, this review is of the Grivel Plume Nut K3N. It weighs a mere 37 grams, and for a screwgate carabiner, that's pretty much the lightest I've come across, and let me tell you: I've done the research. Therefore, I dub it the 'Lightest Screwgate Carabiner In The World'.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXQ9hP0S_GCqrasbJ1PiH0z9r36uLqTheNQrlK6YsgyVVQo7cXme0F9tFLBcW2hKkuio-8O2H_1TCmFAmL3feFun2abaTJwgIL7lheJYmDgnTNvKIiv_59NVRjlhyj2Hi3ee3xVeJ8f1g/s1600/IMG_1083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Lightest Screwgate Carabiner In The World" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXQ9hP0S_GCqrasbJ1PiH0z9r36uLqTheNQrlK6YsgyVVQo7cXme0F9tFLBcW2hKkuio-8O2H_1TCmFAmL3feFun2abaTJwgIL7lheJYmDgnTNvKIiv_59NVRjlhyj2Hi3ee3xVeJ8f1g/s400/IMG_1083.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grivel Plume Nut K3N screwgate carabiner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, it's best in class in the weight catagory. But, is it functional?<br />
<a name='more'></a>Regular light-weight packing 'rules' are applicable to climbing and mountaineering: gear should be as simple and light as possible for the intented use. However, if it's unfit for the intented use, it's just extra weight.<br />
<br />
Let's look at the Plume Nut K3N ('Plume' from now on) a bit more in detail. One important aspect is weight, as stated the Plume weighs 37 grams (1.3 oz) on my scales. That really is light for a screwgate. But how can Grivel make a 'biner that light? The answer is; reduce it's size.<br />
<br />
In the picture below the Plume is compared to a Wild Country Neon screwgate carabiner (previously one of, if not the, lightest screwgate at 42 grams).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRJvizJdd8DMsTj6tkEo0lGa6HBk42M53iNy4EqpsEu3p5CfR_b6WLu_QZTD_UPIB19Sv_rBe_xGhD-UneBEsBRMlNCKwRMe40XxHK8-sYPYxyRos46gyugUB2K9gKuvZ1DYZ1JOi8yk/s1600/IMG_1084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Grivel Plume Nut K3N" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRJvizJdd8DMsTj6tkEo0lGa6HBk42M53iNy4EqpsEu3p5CfR_b6WLu_QZTD_UPIB19Sv_rBe_xGhD-UneBEsBRMlNCKwRMe40XxHK8-sYPYxyRos46gyugUB2K9gKuvZ1DYZ1JOi8yk/s400/IMG_1084.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grivel Plume Nut K3N vs. Wild Country Neon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Neon measures 10.4 cm, the Plume 9 cm. That's a 15% difference.<br />
Another difference is the way the nose is bent.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlv5S0ZQz6uWUuUpksaq7A3wfbrL46aLW8p7ps0godCSjN8RR1yDGKn0Bz7_g67AHcC38YUDUpKH7NRDgz14BbE07s0_1p1uOpPganaVOtA9LYa06IbE8alVvNZKlKNLcAGtL3PK_hyphenhyphenDo/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Wild Country Neon" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlv5S0ZQz6uWUuUpksaq7A3wfbrL46aLW8p7ps0godCSjN8RR1yDGKn0Bz7_g67AHcC38YUDUpKH7NRDgz14BbE07s0_1p1uOpPganaVOtA9LYa06IbE8alVvNZKlKNLcAGtL3PK_hyphenhyphenDo/s200/IMG_1097.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLKp59PgLi0cYjb0JaKmcp81yRgY-177N3uGp8UB-Qt79IOHqLxtGJaDLrDbkMChgwLIA5YDLBK4kw4A9yRoXQ86OCvx6VUFXDjEtTNHgxB_vb-hb_nOv_J7U1qOdc61tQQS_FhtKMsl4/s1600/IMG_1093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Grivel Plume Nut" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLKp59PgLi0cYjb0JaKmcp81yRgY-177N3uGp8UB-Qt79IOHqLxtGJaDLrDbkMChgwLIA5YDLBK4kw4A9yRoXQ86OCvx6VUFXDjEtTNHgxB_vb-hb_nOv_J7U1qOdc61tQQS_FhtKMsl4/s200/IMG_1093.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The Neon has more of a hook, while the Plume's nose is only curved a bit. Much less pronounced. This makes the Plume easier to clip into something. It also reduces the size that area of the 'biner.<br />
<br />
This video shows there's less room in the Plume as compared to the Neon. The coin is a 10 Euro cents, which is 20mm in diameter. The Plume won't open with the coin inside. <br />
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<br />
I also tested a bit with various types of sling, to see what fits.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAqLjo9foTIbROt2y9E8ci1UlfYfUgtird0moFS3zj8T9ep4AQX6Ox0Jzr7gqPLoY76UhTasd4e9GcUTif3W1x0OIqgv7xo-mmE-JSZHjkr81zxr62dLo3j8362Je-6DlbeGUvrHuPHc/s1600/IMG_1089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mammut Contact sling" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAqLjo9foTIbROt2y9E8ci1UlfYfUgtird0moFS3zj8T9ep4AQX6Ox0Jzr7gqPLoY76UhTasd4e9GcUTif3W1x0OIqgv7xo-mmE-JSZHjkr81zxr62dLo3j8362Je-6DlbeGUvrHuPHc/s200/IMG_1089.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKgU4HSNTCNt-TIfye4zNA4kVxOt2_9tw9P5V3d-Z4PnRcWSqwNjfdGfIrOXJyNQawMy7ow2nr3vPesw2fpH8naip8CyCK4YtmcJZe-8wlDn2gDgLGIr3zvl80DcvoY3dreUsfaWrSww0/s1600/IMG_1091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Edelrid Tech Web sling" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKgU4HSNTCNt-TIfye4zNA4kVxOt2_9tw9P5V3d-Z4PnRcWSqwNjfdGfIrOXJyNQawMy7ow2nr3vPesw2fpH8naip8CyCK4YtmcJZe-8wlDn2gDgLGIr3zvl80DcvoY3dreUsfaWrSww0/s200/IMG_1091.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
In the picture on top is a clove hitched Mammut Contact 8mm dyneema sling. On the bottom is a clove hitched Edelrid Tech Web 12mm nylon/dyneema sling. The Plume can be opened and closed with the Mammut sling fairly comfortably. The same cannot be said for when the wider, thicker Edelrid sling is used. The Edelrid has more bulk when knotted and this allows the gate to be closed only barely. I haven't tried to clove hitch a regular single rope, but I would imagine it won't fit. If you just use the Plume to clip into something with a diameter that's not too big, you'll be fine. However, if you use it to build an anchor and want to secure yourself by using a clove hitch, the Plume isn't the best carabiner.<br />
<br />
I haven't yet used the Plume in real climbing, so I can't yet comment on how it performs. But based on this initial assesment, I will be carefull in deciding what I use the Plume for. It might just be better to take a Wild Country Neon - it does weight 5 grams more, but I know it'll take a clove hitched single rope.<br />
<br />
The Grivel Plume Nut K3N in a nutshell:<br />
the good: weight, it's only 37 grams (or 1.3 oz)<br />
the bad: size, Grivel reduced size to reduce weight - that hurts<br />
In this case it may be that light isn't right...<br />
<br />
Edit: oh yes, I hadn't mentioned it yet, but the Plume is full strength (22Kn). Having thought about it a bit more, it may be a good replacement for the accesory 'biner SK1N, which is not (!) rated, that came with the Grivel Easy Slider. The SK1N does weigh 28 grams though, so for 9 grams extra you eliminate a weak link. See the picture below for a comparison between the SK1N on the Grivel Easy Slider and the Plume:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxo7WAUOrj4F4E18p5klZo4rbGToLnJLmEQSCVY-QgXXqgBkzaTnM1Y-ZHw3Np_lnDo0wovo92K75VMZjCl2c1rpZZsg89GhmJD1PxFQE6E4-KNajx8HNyH528azwQpu-jhmlIakvAdgo/s1600/IMG_1105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxo7WAUOrj4F4E18p5klZo4rbGToLnJLmEQSCVY-QgXXqgBkzaTnM1Y-ZHw3Np_lnDo0wovo92K75VMZjCl2c1rpZZsg89GhmJD1PxFQE6E4-KNajx8HNyH528azwQpu-jhmlIakvAdgo/s200/IMG_1105.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grivel Easy Slider, SK1N and the Plume Nut K3N</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Edit 2: I'm happy to say I've found more uses for the Plume. It makes a nice carabiner for a small piton-hole, and it's also nice as a connector between the anchor and a Reverso.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzCLu-Qy80jvNUc8MfgpI0RsMsuDGtPtjEvNe8zP-ZrVQO0hvzXJ8Ru9I5HDlorA9kPGhhDtf1qj68kCofCeHno1kHjk21GfdXZ4y_e-09W8WiNjaKSqEyD2aG7t1T0XMjSoA7_WEVC0/s1600/IMG_1501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzCLu-Qy80jvNUc8MfgpI0RsMsuDGtPtjEvNe8zP-ZrVQO0hvzXJ8Ru9I5HDlorA9kPGhhDtf1qj68kCofCeHno1kHjk21GfdXZ4y_e-09W8WiNjaKSqEyD2aG7t1T0XMjSoA7_WEVC0/s200/IMG_1501.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plume in a small Piton</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8AxCp6TV1iQFfHB3QRtgAi9md_3klRVboVfNg8mf9nA867oMlDu0CNIPdYK8cBEwbKp23bYC1M-f1MsekafwdIFS3TGafQr6A6Ncp-n2sFS5HYRhy4HQPM4Tp4t0VP93PcjzVZuxfvfw/s1600/IMG_1988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8AxCp6TV1iQFfHB3QRtgAi9md_3klRVboVfNg8mf9nA867oMlDu0CNIPdYK8cBEwbKp23bYC1M-f1MsekafwdIFS3TGafQr6A6Ncp-n2sFS5HYRhy4HQPM4Tp4t0VP93PcjzVZuxfvfw/s200/IMG_1988.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plume as a connector</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Find info about the Plume on the Grivel website <a href="http://www.grivel.com/products/rock/carabiners/synoptic" target="_blank">here</a>. <br />
<br />
If you liked this post, please support this blog by buying your gear via this link:
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<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">disclaimer: I bought the gear mentioned in this test myself</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-1461849900554972802012-03-02T10:11:00.000+01:002012-03-03T13:38:40.726+01:00The Apprentice... aka ice skills again<br />
<b>This text was originally posted on <a href="http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Cold Thistle</a>. As I'm in the stage of learning how to ice-climb, this was very usefull to me, so I thought I'd pass on the information on my own blog. Thanks, Dane. </b><br />
<br />
Ice climbing is a subtle sport. At first glance it would seem to be all strength and bravado.<br />
It isn't. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinM-IzyIEW-FsWuxRIxduqOipP9d22D0R5EELnS9gXo-t1PZiwia6dQyVeFYlHdfUzsCyIOa215jyFYRXtwc10pSmnN__A3fFQ_0ZkM0VyDbmJhKVGw32q2j9oBbenfqq5EQ9qKj4aEPU/s1600/IMG_0930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinM-IzyIEW-FsWuxRIxduqOipP9d22D0R5EELnS9gXo-t1PZiwia6dQyVeFYlHdfUzsCyIOa215jyFYRXtwc10pSmnN__A3fFQ_0ZkM0VyDbmJhKVGw32q2j9oBbenfqq5EQ9qKj4aEPU/s400/IMG_0930.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When learning, you can use some help. Here our guide Werner is setting up a top-rope for us to practice on. Gausthausfall, Leusens, Austria</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Knowing the difference between a high volume flow and a low
volume flow can not only save your life it might well tell you where the
best line on the falls will be or tell you when to climb or not in a
snow storm or bright sun light instead.<br />
<br />
Having an "eye" to know where the quality of the ice changes and will
most effect screw and tool placement is not something you can learn in a
day's outing. It is just a start. Most will need seasons, or moving
to Canmore to accumulate that education.<br />
<br />
Pulling plastic has about as much to do with ice climbing as playing
basket ball. Both will get you in shape if done at a high enough
level. Neither skill will mean squat when you clip on a pair of
crampons.<br />
<br />
Ice climbing is also extremely gear DEPENDANT. I have said many times
any old club will do in place of a decent ice tool if your skills will.
That is true. But miss match boots and crampons and having the ability
to do a gazillion pull ups won't help you for long.<br />
<br />
I know for a fact having good rock climbing and rope skills will make
you a better ice climber. For no other reason than it will allow you to
manage the rope systems easier and quicker. Basic rock climbing skills
on how a rope runs or should run are required on ice just as they are
on rock.<br />
<br />
But being able to lead 5.12 trad (and few really do) isn't going to
help you much on ice if you have never placed a screw. It is simple
right up until the point it isn't. Why anyone would ever put in a bad
screw is beyond me. Finding poorly placed screws while following simply
dumbfounds me. Either the leader is WAY in over his head or they are
an idiot. Take the time to learn how to put in perfect screws while
on the GROUND. Then never, ever put in a bad one. Learn what it takes
to accomplish that. It aint rocket science but then it isn't all that
easy either with out some practice. You first grade 4 pillar is NOT the
place to be learning how to place screws.<br />
<br />
Just as your first 5.10 hand crack isn't the place to learn how to place your first cam. Hello!<br />
<br />
I learned to climb ice with a couple of friends who had also....never
climbed water fall ice. The sport was new then. The original screws
and ice pitons seldom worked. We learned together as the ice climbing
standards became more difficult and the gear better. We paid our own
dues. Luckily none were costly. But they easily could have been. I
can still honestly stay I have not taken a lead fall on ice. But only
through the grace of God.<br />
<br />
The skilled ice climbers I am lucky enough to climb with can all
generally claim the same. Only "modern mixed" has changed that. Even
then a smart man/woman will go to great extremes not to fall with a pair
of crampons on. You down climb. You hang on the rope, your umbilicals
or a screw. You DO NOT fall off. <br />
<br />
Remember, "it is a all fun and games until someone loses and eye." Fall off and it just may be your eye!<br />
<br />
These days "ice climbers" seem to be born in a gym. Falling is a way of life. <br />
<br />
Don't get me wrong...nothing wrong with falling. I am done my own share
learning to lead well enough to put up trad .11s and 12s. And there
were a lot of falls involved both on a top rope and on lead.<br />
<br />
<b>You must learn how to down climb.</b><br />
<br />
Climbing up something you can't easily down climb is tantamount to
swimming off shore and well out of sight of land. Better to have a
safety net. A big one if you can't down climb easily and quickly what
ever you climb up. Sure you'll do leads that you can't easily
reverse. But they should be damn few and far between. If you can lead
grade 4 ice in comfort, you should be able to easily and quickly down
climb grade 3 ice. Grade 5 ice on lead then Grade 4 ice should be an
easy down climb.<br />
<br />
Picked out climbs make you lazy. Make an effort to get on ice climbs
that aren't just "sport ice" that are totally picked out with foot steps
and pick hooks up big sections of the climb. I like that kind of fun
climbing myself, "hook and book". But it is TERRIBLE for the techniques
required to climb virgin ice.<br />
Get on new ice when you can. You might find Grade 3 ice is hard enough again to get your attention and still be really fun.<br />
<br />
Following? If you can't follow any ice pitch faster than your leader
can run it out......you REALLY NEED TO STOP AND ASSESS you own skill
level. Reality needs to meet ability. Because one of two things is
happening here. You are either attempting to climb way out of your
skill level or the leader has skills you are a long ways from attaining
yet. Nothing wrong with either......it just makes a hard day (and
possibly dangerous day) in the mountains for leader and follower if that
difference isn't recognised and understood. Just be honest with
yourself and your partners. Always push yourself on a top rope or as
a 2nd to go faster and climb better. You can bet that is how the
other guy got that much better.<br />
<br />
Danger? Yes, ice climbing will get you killed if you aren't careful.
It aint the gym or the local cragging area. Things go to shit
quickly on ice and snow. Lots of pointy things to poke holes in your
own personal meat bag that can cause problems. Lots of things falling
down for one reason or the other. Climbers at drastically differing
skill levels put the responsibility (and the majority of the safety
issues) on the more experience and generally faster climber. <br />
<br />
Leading? Leading isn't a big deal. <b>Falling off and getting injured is.</b>
Who do you think will have to haul your sorry ass off the mountain if
you take a winger? Better hope your partner is up to the task. <br />
<br />
No one has the "right" to lead. You earn that right through experience,
patience and skill. You may know how to clip on a pair of crampons.
But do you know how to actually fit them? You can buy all the cool
gear, read of the books or pump your instructors for info but if you
don't know how it works and most importantly UNDERSTAND the gear/info
what good is it when the shit starts to fail?<br />
<br />
<b>And all of it will eventually fail, including your partner...</b><br />
<br />
You better have a good plan.<br />
<br />
Soloing?<br />
<br />
If you want to climb in the alpine faster and climb more difficult water
ice learn how to be confident soloing in your comfort level of
technical skill. In the right conditions WI3 should be casual. The
same bullet proof ice in the alpine might well take a belay, the rope
and protection. Know the difference. Learn how to simul climb and more
importantly...when you should and should not simul climb.<br />
<br />
You don't yet know what you don't know. Again, nothing wrong with
that. But time to open your eyes if you fall into that category and
start paying more attention. We all "fall" into that category in case
you are still wondering. Including me. Work harder at going faster,
being more aware of your own and your partner's skils and safety. And
learn how to down climb among other things. Up your rock climbing
skills and over all climbing SPEED in the summer. Better and faster
belays, not just your pure climbing speed. It will help your ice
climbing and alpine climbing next winter.<br />
<br />
Back to the <b>Apprenticeship?</b><br />
<br />
<b>It is a </b>system of training the practitioner in a structured competency based set of skills.<br />
<br />
To get good and stay safe ice climbing (or alpine climbing) you need to serve a <b>Apprenticeship. </b><br />
<br />
<b>Either get some good professional instruction or find a friend
(or a long list of friends) who has/have the ability to pass those
skills on to you.</b> <br />
<br />
I am still asking questions and learning every trip to the ice. Are you?<br />
<br />
Days are long past that I would suggest a few buddies teach themselves
how to climb ice....if you want to stay safe while learning our craft.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-48019405020834583342012-02-25T14:01:00.000+01:002013-01-25T12:58:00.334+01:00Gear: MLD Super Exodus backpackThis is a review of my Mountain Laurel Designs Super Exodus (2010) backpack, after a fair period of use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Z34QKjfUVGakTOBhdjWdYONqGuT7eF72qaQJKibSUCYw0ikmz16ffZ_RDad8ul_KX_8urHhyphenhyphenbz-BnCKO-hoMiYPORSkuke_vh7DTki17bRJwXW5gxrV0srMtHRK3h_ZbpADLrQneesU/s1600/IMG_1027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="MLD Exodus" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Z34QKjfUVGakTOBhdjWdYONqGuT7eF72qaQJKibSUCYw0ikmz16ffZ_RDad8ul_KX_8urHhyphenhyphenbz-BnCKO-hoMiYPORSkuke_vh7DTki17bRJwXW5gxrV0srMtHRK3h_ZbpADLrQneesU/s400/IMG_1027.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
You might think 'Super' Exodus? What makes it super? Well, if you go to MLD's <a href="http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=103" target="_blank">website</a> and look up the Exodus, you will no longer find that option, but back in 2010, Ron at MLD offered a 'Super' version of the packs he makes.<br />
<a name='more'></a>If you're familiar with MLD packs you'll probably notice a few things that are different with the Super. The main thing is that the Dyneema X fabric is used for the whole of the pack, and that includes the main outside pocket, the side pockets and the extension collar, which are normally made of mesh-fabric. Using the Dyneema X for the whole pack makes it considerably stronger and more abrasion resistant. It also gives the pack a very 'clean' look. I like it. Also different is a double layer of fabric on the bottom of the pack, larger ice-axe loops and the larger hipbelt wings. These things make it more suitable for use in an alpine environment, and that's exactly what I use it for a lot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvIm9RZw-JQ2BWYu9IWrbHD2MEJ8SF2LEqs2wJi8RY5DUHZRBm3mPed5E9qH737Z2fH_QXKSU9SoBx1D35qzNKXm9z6N2jHZ8aufvtiDVAxfejn1JrmeDjjlnCxMcxlE9MZXuTBgqIxU/s1600/IMG_1022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="MLD Super Exodus" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvIm9RZw-JQ2BWYu9IWrbHD2MEJ8SF2LEqs2wJi8RY5DUHZRBm3mPed5E9qH737Z2fH_QXKSU9SoBx1D35qzNKXm9z6N2jHZ8aufvtiDVAxfejn1JrmeDjjlnCxMcxlE9MZXuTBgqIxU/s400/IMG_1022.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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To be able to use pack also on the walk-in to a hut or bivy-site, it would have to be capable of carrying a decent load in reasonable comfort. But, the Exodus is a frameless pack, and those usually aren't known for that. So I modified the pack a bit. I used a lightweight frame from a pack I didn't use anymore, taped that to a piece of CCF and fixed it on the inside of the pack. An option on the pack is a removable hydration pouch, and for that 2 loops are sewn in to the pack. These turned out to be perfect to hold my MYOG-frame in place, it really helps in transferring weight to the hips. Loads of 15 kilo (33 lbs) are very manageable, in relative comfort. Those 15 kilo loads seem a lot if you're used to lightweight backpacking, but if you're out doing some mountaineering, the weight quickly adds up!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguh1B6bgkBbni0mYmvVRS92tUlLzNL3LxmUcD10-hBpdxuQ0FBrU88YElIwbgODElxCtlXVDFyuEqhH2Aw7sGnxMy3rbO8CjSYrqNmfpYXPQORpsLhgrQ5y2c3enAkpkPVTC9EsHFBHfY/s1600/IMG_1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="MYOG backpack frame" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguh1B6bgkBbni0mYmvVRS92tUlLzNL3LxmUcD10-hBpdxuQ0FBrU88YElIwbgODElxCtlXVDFyuEqhH2Aw7sGnxMy3rbO8CjSYrqNmfpYXPQORpsLhgrQ5y2c3enAkpkPVTC9EsHFBHfY/s400/IMG_1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
You have about 55 liter (3500 cuin) of space to pack those 15 kilo's worth of gear. The pack itself, including the frame, weighs 850 grams (30 oz). Again, that seems heavy if you're into (ultra) lightweight packpacking. For a mountaineering pack though, it's light! And remember, for that weight, you get a fully featured pack that's tough as nails! I've used it on a number of trips, both in the mountains and woods, use it anytime I go to gym, and it still looks as new.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis9TYuZn41a39GJcRyWzvW5DiJ2E14ph3OlrlmTxZTIGDVCy1OhMK84TY6fCQzgzttSA-HmsPLMdeGZdpkFwB8C1LKBRd8hckCRUx-VbFDm1z5_OZTRL29WhoRWveFLBg564EkI8p7nG0/s1600/IMG_1019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis9TYuZn41a39GJcRyWzvW5DiJ2E14ph3OlrlmTxZTIGDVCy1OhMK84TY6fCQzgzttSA-HmsPLMdeGZdpkFwB8C1LKBRd8hckCRUx-VbFDm1z5_OZTRL29WhoRWveFLBg564EkI8p7nG0/s400/IMG_1019.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Because of the extension collar on the top, and the 'compactor' loops on the bottom of the pack, it's very easy to be flexible with the pack-volume. At it's largest, the pack can hold about 55 liters inside, with a number of options to keep things on the outside of the pack. I had 2 compression straps added to each side of the pack for that reason. It's perfect for attaching snowshoes to. Even if the pack is full, there's still room for a climbing rope on top of the pack. And off course the ice-axe loops are used for keeping ice-axes on the outside of the pack. So at it's largest, it's a fairly big pack. But when compacted, you can get it down do about 30-35 liters.<br />
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To sum up: the MLD Super Exodus is light, strong and versatile. It's still almost as new, almost 2 years after I got it (and it's not been lying in a closet all that time). I hope to use it for a long time to come.<br />
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With innovation always going forward, MLD now offer the Exodus in a <a href="http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=185" target="_blank">full suspension version</a>, which should improve load-carrying ability, without the need for a MYOG frame.<br />
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Some pictures of the pack in use:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9O81KAcWdleLeWa12mEvxV6gLNKTWli4I_argqd25-0YUms5sfXZuEd-KEk3YNKP0lke_Jc1jpRNbCqFuyiDOtgf6YtoYtEcxD1PPAmf47ZKpgYyORu7aCMCP_j4cPS6uUbyMTIiGcNU/s1600/cebollar-alegas-107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Snowshoeing with Spanish Highs Mountain Guides" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9O81KAcWdleLeWa12mEvxV6gLNKTWli4I_argqd25-0YUms5sfXZuEd-KEk3YNKP0lke_Jc1jpRNbCqFuyiDOtgf6YtoYtEcxD1PPAmf47ZKpgYyORu7aCMCP_j4cPS6uUbyMTIiGcNU/s400/cebollar-alegas-107.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowshoeing in Spain's Sierra Nevada, towards the Cebollar refuge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0VQXHMm_YTNU_qONdRdH00DOij3cuCJASVZcfmpvAm3eLS0h_9kckPKvNwMaTB4_9jo1V7CaGCSfXaC6d78xeLvhob9GEJ_LYNYzQ6kTRhVnCkGIoGTEB4-9yu8bR-_MOoucaEjZzHM/s1600/cebollar-alegas-152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="climbing down a gully" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0VQXHMm_YTNU_qONdRdH00DOij3cuCJASVZcfmpvAm3eLS0h_9kckPKvNwMaTB4_9jo1V7CaGCSfXaC6d78xeLvhob9GEJ_LYNYzQ6kTRhVnCkGIoGTEB4-9yu8bR-_MOoucaEjZzHM/s400/cebollar-alegas-152.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moving down a gully with the Super Exodus on my back</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-21049340683663157372012-02-17T17:13:00.000+01:002014-04-07T12:31:45.169+02:00Gear: Grivel Quantum Light ice axe<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">During the ice climbing course I did recently, I used some new gear. Next to the <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.com/2012/02/gear-review-petzl-lynx-crampons.html" target="_blank">Petzl Lynx crampons</a>, also new were a pair of Grivel Quantum Light ice axes.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0YsJzeg97SUfyDrwMlwabUVbNsOp_0TUn9GGJZ7pCsKpXDij6j679l3fCEhyaH-U6l3PPufJJiobxqXPygZrAd0Xjkh_9IwC37JLFGlGoJ9X6oBEXfiS479attoP23YO-UDjmZH4UoEk/s1600/IMG_1006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Grivel Quantum Light" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0YsJzeg97SUfyDrwMlwabUVbNsOp_0TUn9GGJZ7pCsKpXDij6j679l3fCEhyaH-U6l3PPufJJiobxqXPygZrAd0Xjkh_9IwC37JLFGlGoJ9X6oBEXfiS479attoP23YO-UDjmZH4UoEk/s400/IMG_1006.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grivel Quantum Light ice axes, 1 with adze and 1 with hammer</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> I modified the axes a little bit before I used them, which becomes obvious if you compare the picture above with this stock-image:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCAy13OBFqxOCww4PTcTHAdU0BDMt2_niyNqTg8EwsQS0hwiYTMOSx5qhANl95-e2PCpx54cjltJwMQgX5c1DMtU4GWyM5xwhJjFTJCQe55ezXZkANP3qQt7qqAPK-3Mhol7AnJdzP6U/s1600/53_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCAy13OBFqxOCww4PTcTHAdU0BDMt2_niyNqTg8EwsQS0hwiYTMOSx5qhANl95-e2PCpx54cjltJwMQgX5c1DMtU4GWyM5xwhJjFTJCQe55ezXZkANP3qQt7qqAPK-3Mhol7AnJdzP6U/s320/53_l.jpg" height="190" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I removed the yellow accordion-shaped plastic thingie, which serves no real obvious purpose as far as I'm concerned. Removing it makes the axe look more 'clean', which I like. I also added a Grivel Easy Slider to each axe. Although I did not use the sling during the course (I would if I would be using the axes in an alpine environment), the plastic part of it allowed me to use the axe leashless.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiILFxnDti4A8wYDK3hOqmGn2lQ6SaJRunmsK8SiHq6mxSsW7GLjnTm5c9kvRtyY8P7_H6DxOXXiHHma9zeXFWXhD3GSz8teFWDzqfw2SKHGoLzkrwyhM_NaoDk4FOTG2L12-zVd8M1Mmg/s1600/EasySlider.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The Grivel Quantum Light is very similar to the Grivel Matrix Light. The main (if not only?) difference is that the shaft of the Quantum Light is made of a carbon composite, and the Matrix Light is made of chromolly steel. The carbon composite, next to looking way cooler but also being more expensive, is supposed to generate less vibration when you hit the ice, which is nice, both for your arms, but also the ice.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielh0ttPgHDdXWXBp0a6GqcLeTbhHvLvKVHIiZtQ_h6Iy86vz3k_lS33qAz4PtIYj1eG26v5rm-phWuPMLS4pdAB9Si6aK_-ywYvNafij8pqufciPoV1WifVatdUVfWXCIlMhBTgUpqEE/s1600/IMG_1004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Grivel Quantum Light review" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielh0ttPgHDdXWXBp0a6GqcLeTbhHvLvKVHIiZtQ_h6Iy86vz3k_lS33qAz4PtIYj1eG26v5rm-phWuPMLS4pdAB9Si6aK_-ywYvNafij8pqufciPoV1WifVatdUVfWXCIlMhBTgUpqEE/s400/IMG_1004.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;">The pick of the ice axe is the Monster X, which is made for technical ice climbing. The weight of the pick, compared to the rest of the axe makes it a bit top-heavy. The extra weight in the head of the axe improves the swing and correct placement though.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtlGu-3dnQcksFRS4sFhihlYy_ILt5JDL0iYay5qPNaME2hkqiFNkNk6L64x1Uxs6klvi8VngvLE9n8J00BWyGsFNHbOB4abm-RoFtlz012_IjIjfg3fprP255Qoo9NVDnKQZlplQQqHE/s1600/IMG_1006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Grivel Quantum Light" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtlGu-3dnQcksFRS4sFhihlYy_ILt5JDL0iYay5qPNaME2hkqiFNkNk6L64x1Uxs6klvi8VngvLE9n8J00BWyGsFNHbOB4abm-RoFtlz012_IjIjfg3fprP255Qoo9NVDnKQZlplQQqHE/s400/IMG_1006.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">You can see the more aggresive line of both the shaft and the pick of the Quantum Light, if you compare it to the Grivel Air Tech Carbon, a more conventional ice axe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyWwHRcCSLLsetbXugU1c9KFetLxYVX0HbWizEhacIessBULVykNKiMBR_Tn_evMYyqQbotnIuN6YzQ_hqoIOfqOPr_DdXhItyTJ_YmrXQjbl0FW93xrytSA2kAFurY30gX76V4H1LHhM/s1600/IMG_1008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Grivel Air Tech Carbon Grivel Quantum Light" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyWwHRcCSLLsetbXugU1c9KFetLxYVX0HbWizEhacIessBULVykNKiMBR_Tn_evMYyqQbotnIuN6YzQ_hqoIOfqOPr_DdXhItyTJ_YmrXQjbl0FW93xrytSA2kAFurY30gX76V4H1LHhM/s400/IMG_1008.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">In the picture below, you can see the axes in action.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kdjDU1zpLtcOOp5luyQTaZxi4OGEkA29y67E592q8miBHug6d3JYUo9He_MQsP7DVdH4qMBvliX4K6CSVzvgqagpBhITqXLm8dIqKLZQUOtZKgOqQ2FFrZnd6iT-Qofr3Y6ixwxgwRI/s1600/IMG_0961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kdjDU1zpLtcOOp5luyQTaZxi4OGEkA29y67E592q8miBHug6d3JYUo9He_MQsP7DVdH4qMBvliX4K6CSVzvgqagpBhITqXLm8dIqKLZQUOtZKgOqQ2FFrZnd6iT-Qofr3Y6ixwxgwRI/s400/IMG_0961.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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disclaimer: <br /><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">one of the axes was supplied to me at no charge by klimwinkel.nl, in exchange for a review</span><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-77422091328214561292012-02-04T14:32:00.000+01:002013-08-05T17:50:30.766+02:00Gear: Petzl Lynx crampons<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I've used the new Petzl Lynx crampons for the Ice Climbing course I did recently, and have already mentioned them in the post about <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-gear.html" target="_blank">Ice Climbing Gear</a>. I thought I would also do a more in-depth review.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsPIobZzbljOCuAyW55RG_C-px9hDEj5bKN7vhuxHFPPI6GeZMG5ANPcLp-xPKQA3fLraXoXpAkADMaFInszMfrY98_OiDsMDYQvDJFMcSSrDLOSToWBYPH3LZN_P-xb6DKZo5z3nrQ2U/s1600/IMG_0985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Petzl Lynx review" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsPIobZzbljOCuAyW55RG_C-px9hDEj5bKN7vhuxHFPPI6GeZMG5ANPcLp-xPKQA3fLraXoXpAkADMaFInszMfrY98_OiDsMDYQvDJFMcSSrDLOSToWBYPH3LZN_P-xb6DKZo5z3nrQ2U/s320/IMG_0985.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Petzl describe the Lynx crampons as modular crampons for ice and mixed climbing, with leverlock universal bindings. 'Modular' refers to the changeable frontpoints and bindings of the Lynx.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">According to the box, the crampons weigh 1080 grams, though this depends on the chosen configuration - mono point obviously weighs less then dual point and also the choice of the changeable front binding influences weight. According to Petzl, monopoint configuration, with no anti-bot plates fitted is supposed to weigh 910 grams.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">In the pictures below you see what the supplied package looks like, and what's inside. The crampons, a crampon-bag and a little bag with a tool and extra parts.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgom-TBGbvzpV-XvK0Ml522BmfaGHtOU5syJLc8D4CCvraeZmb1ZvA6cqdm3uVlzns38v8rOoOwJPhzIpFnnI-ZxWajXkFSqSS_R7N3Xz5Tr6aoRDg87i9dG1eGHT4v_H_9neerYesTZSA/s1600/IMG_0864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgom-TBGbvzpV-XvK0Ml522BmfaGHtOU5syJLc8D4CCvraeZmb1ZvA6cqdm3uVlzns38v8rOoOwJPhzIpFnnI-ZxWajXkFSqSS_R7N3Xz5Tr6aoRDg87i9dG1eGHT4v_H_9neerYesTZSA/s320/IMG_0864.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The ability to change from dual to mono, make long or short frontpoints, or even asymmetrical frontpoints, sets these crampons apart from the rest.</span><span style="font-size: small;"> Petzl supply most of what you need to make these changes to the crampons. The only thing I used to change the crampons that was not included, was a wrench (bottom left in the picture below), which i used to stabilize the bolt so I was able to loosen it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JDiCVYA-i6HlIEzdotzzD6uv6PlA91x4SGoihDWbuy6PI4UjKWD0b4hKhgMuYg9iq81TUbkQozzzrW9JHFWEFlvNkogYwC36KplpmzTLtc8gMuY9CbK6we9vNscwDrRjvI3Eid0W_o0/s1600/IMG_0987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JDiCVYA-i6HlIEzdotzzD6uv6PlA91x4SGoihDWbuy6PI4UjKWD0b4hKhgMuYg9iq81TUbkQozzzrW9JHFWEFlvNkogYwC36KplpmzTLtc8gMuY9CbK6we9vNscwDrRjvI3Eid0W_o0/s320/IMG_0987.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The process is pretty easy; you remove the bolt, remove the frontpoints, remove one of the tubular thingies from the anti-bott plate that keeps the frontpoint in place and replace it with a larger one, push said thingies to the side of the crampon so a space opens up in the middle for one fronpoint, place the frontpoint, either long or short (that's what the 2 holes in the middle of the frontpoint are for), put the bolt back in, screw tight - done. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The result, on the left a mono-point and on the right a dual-point configuration:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6OkFKt5sEKLJNlW0aOohRnLb4JQXXVT2Xq94PweI-fRlqDSruLsOml0-g7p0Rci2n7Wzw_I9krFwJUhBXFMkRFhDp0O-wEN_idx0jBOqkrCFAg-a2D6TRrWtbCQEVMQ5mKtuSDgE2PkI/s1600/IMG_0985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Petzl Lynx mono point" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6OkFKt5sEKLJNlW0aOohRnLb4JQXXVT2Xq94PweI-fRlqDSruLsOml0-g7p0Rci2n7Wzw_I9krFwJUhBXFMkRFhDp0O-wEN_idx0jBOqkrCFAg-a2D6TRrWtbCQEVMQ5mKtuSDgE2PkI/s320/IMG_0985.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The crampons fit boots up to EU size 45 (~UK11, ~US12), which meant I had to replace the linking bars with the larger size. I already had a pair of those, fitted to my Petzl Vasak crampons. Proof the Petzl crampon linking bars are interchaneable between different types of crampons too :-). </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Summing up; </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The Good:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">These are a pair of do-it-all crampons, although according to Petzl, they're less then optimal for use in normal mountaineering (glaciers, snow fields), like the terrain you would use a pair of Petzl Vasaks for. I'm sure though, the Lynxes will work there too. On Ice and Mixed however, they're great.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The Bad:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Nothing bad really. The only thing is that I had to use my own wrench (luckily I had a good sized one) - Petzl could've included a simple one in the package. Another thing that could have been added is, which is only due to my big feet, I would've appreciated a pair of long linking-bars.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEy3m2_MgRzBX6gTpHhj7GpS1Cm9XmPl5VplxXdgpTLnbZX1UV56iOCbLXoHit_JhSoxmyZaafL_x2M1EC8OauWoE-eNdXM6qsTq7kUe9DfSrnWUhdyoREbFXVBMy0rZLgjfNjrQ-zmFY/s1600/IMG_0948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEy3m2_MgRzBX6gTpHhj7GpS1Cm9XmPl5VplxXdgpTLnbZX1UV56iOCbLXoHit_JhSoxmyZaafL_x2M1EC8OauWoE-eNdXM6qsTq7kUe9DfSrnWUhdyoREbFXVBMy0rZLgjfNjrQ-zmFY/s320/IMG_0948.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Lynxes in their natural habitat.</span></td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-42065164388192139912012-01-29T17:39:00.000+01:002013-01-27T16:20:41.025+01:00Ice Climbing & Gear<div style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">There are a few things on my list of climbing-things-to-do, one of them is learning how to climb waterfall ice. <span style="font-size: small;">I´ve <span style="font-size: small;">been able to check this off<span style="font-size: small;">, as </span></span></span>this past week I've been <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing" target="_blank">Ice Climbing</a> in Leusens, Austria. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwSZoRlf89dc8WkFDYJyPM2M8GZTlEmATpygl6ri0kjQqb3tUg5gM32uFVoaIr3AK0BHUfTEUnyeTRyi1mPnTtOyFshbrWhMW_XW7YTMaBW1pj36llCLdUl8uYtnW4XpPajRYuQV-PxM/s1600/GroteFoto-I46V6LTA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Gasthaussfall Luesens" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwSZoRlf89dc8WkFDYJyPM2M8GZTlEmATpygl6ri0kjQqb3tUg5gM32uFVoaIr3AK0BHUfTEUnyeTRyi1mPnTtOyFshbrWhMW_XW7YTMaBW1pj36llCLdUl8uYtnW4XpPajRYuQV-PxM/s400/GroteFoto-I46V6LTA.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading part of the Gasthausfall, Luesens, Tirol, Austria.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Ice Climbing is pretty gear intensive; you need a lot of it, especially for long routes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br />Fortunately I was on a beginners course (organized by the Dutch climbing and mountaineering association <a href="http://www.nkbv.nl/" target="_blank">NKBV</a>) - beginners routes usually aren't that long. Even so, my pack was pretty heavy. The photo below gives an impression of the gear I used.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb1HptlFTl7H9_ohyphenhyphenX1bWQDbAyuv1NnoEEp1rrt0b5FtPZLMWvkW1MWIGvd9r1seaHw4Kv7MJRFjju-lMN0W3omOPrCTyWMdTsEpzwUXltaaWoYcD0iDaTIsiTU8on4g5o1kUnyiOa_FU/s1600/IMG_0870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb1HptlFTl7H9_ohyphenhyphenX1bWQDbAyuv1NnoEEp1rrt0b5FtPZLMWvkW1MWIGvd9r1seaHw4Kv7MJRFjju-lMN0W3omOPrCTyWMdTsEpzwUXltaaWoYcD0iDaTIsiTU8on4g5o1kUnyiOa_FU/s320/IMG_0870.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top left to bottom right: Hanwag Omega GTX boots, Petzl Lynx crampons, Camp Air CR harness, Grivel Salamander Helmet, Black Diamond & Grivel ice screws, Grivel Quantum Light axe, Wild Country/Kong QD's, DMM Belay Master, Petzl Reverso3, DMM Sentinel HMS biners, Wild Country ropemen, Mammut slings, prussik ropes, Grivel Daisy Chain.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The following items are <span style="font-size: small;">r<span style="font-size: small;">equired</span></span> for ice climbing:</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Ice Tools</span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYaLkFbRLZKZp1ukjQCgW9CN5lEwW4v7fVuZjW-t-WzR580qf2b8Z6l5fjnww4iuj5Cpyi2OYyjtgSlwwdxywFxxqc-8I7WEBgFI5KxX90mNbnCFXHan-a_l5xmWrb_x5BTwzO85HXu8/s1600/IMG_0902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYaLkFbRLZKZp1ukjQCgW9CN5lEwW4v7fVuZjW-t-WzR580qf2b8Z6l5fjnww4iuj5Cpyi2OYyjtgSlwwdxywFxxqc-8I7WEBgFI5KxX90mNbnCFXHan-a_l5xmWrb_x5BTwzO85HXu8/s320/IMG_0902.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grivel Quantum Lights are the tools on the left (the ones on the right are Petzls)</td></tr>
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I<span style="font-size: small;"> used Grivel Quantum Light tools, one hammer and one adze. For pure waterfall climbing, which I did, you don't really need an adze, but I intend to use these tools also in a more alpine environment, where you do need one. This was a small compromise when choosing tools, but I'm glad I made it. The Quantum Lights are light (just onder 500 grams each), whichs really is nice when you almost constantly use them above your head. Other tools that were used were ones by AustriAlpin, which were considerably heavier, which lead to tired arms. Not a problem with the Quantum Lights. The tools were also very easy to place - the carbon composite in the shaft is supposed to help in that area, by reducing vibriation when hitting the ice. The weight is more towards the head, which also helps.</span><b><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Crampons</span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZjiw1e0G35PkZXNC9LPbZLXUjfUXhkoJaNe2SCVS8GTlk7HsDl57MjR_isQwBZbKU0x3v5lVAl3C0DG2hQeTI7xGSS7mUAK__0waQu5x558FNHZJauOOJuGa4QTFbBRTJW81_tMnsf4/s1600/IMG_0865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZjiw1e0G35PkZXNC9LPbZLXUjfUXhkoJaNe2SCVS8GTlk7HsDl57MjR_isQwBZbKU0x3v5lVAl3C0DG2hQeTI7xGSS7mUAK__0waQu5x558FNHZJauOOJuGa4QTFbBRTJW81_tMnsf4/s320/IMG_0865.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petzl Lynx crampons on Hanwag shoes</td></tr>
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I used Petzl Lynx crampons, which are new, modular crampons. Read my seperate review of them <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.com/2012/02/gear-review-petzl-lynx-crampons.html" target="_blank">here</a>. They are very well suited for ice and mixed climbing, due to the vertical front points. The normal configuration for these crampons is 2 front points, and I used them like that for the whole week, but it is also possible to change to 1 front point, for more technical ice and/or mixed climbing. Apart from the front point(s), there are still 12 points facing down, which lead to very stable crampons.</div>
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As I have large sized feet, I had to fit fit long linking bars, as the regular ones fit up to size 45 EU. In the picture above, I quickly fit the Lynx's to a pair of Hanwag Ferrata Combi GTX, which do not have toe welts. As you can see, that's no problem. The shoes I actually used, do have toe welts, and as the Lynx's come with changeable bindings, that would have been no problem either. However, I used the basket-type binding all week, which worked fine. They are pretty versatile crampons!</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Helmet</b> <br />I used a Grivel Salamander helmet. Not the newest, or the lightest, but it is a pretty time-tested helmet, and I like it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Ice Screws</b> <br />I brought 2 brands/types of<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_screw" target="_blank"> ice screws</a>; Black Diamond Turbo Express and Grivel 360's. Both are modern type screws and will hold in decent ice. However, I found the Black Diamonds are faster to place. Speed of placement is a big deal when you're leading a route for the first time, and your feet aren't in very solid ice... </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyf5VMGb3ZFsxhai3vbrTEylzVTst7Gaz7Br1rKlBwCivEuIZm8mxJoM7gD2IlJtWk57DBeGelrSbLC0gvk7fCgDRjJsI2YUJFiO5c4xh6CMLTk-yp6pZ4H1cTYZVZPOXrakXgxfwI1XE/s1600/IMG_0970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyf5VMGb3ZFsxhai3vbrTEylzVTst7Gaz7Br1rKlBwCivEuIZm8mxJoM7gD2IlJtWk57DBeGelrSbLC0gvk7fCgDRjJsI2YUJFiO5c4xh6CMLTk-yp6pZ4H1cTYZVZPOXrakXgxfwI1XE/s320/IMG_0970.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Placing a screw while leading a part of the Gasthausfall near Luesens</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><br />Quickdraws</b><br />I used home-made <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quickdraw" target="_blank">QD's</a>, 1 Wild Country Astro, a Kong dog-bone and 1 Wild Country Helium.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><br />Rope</b> <br />I used the rope that was provided by the NKBV, as I don't own my own rope. The NKBV could have supplied all the nessecary gear, as it was a beginners course. But because I had a lot of the gear already, I decided to bring all my own stuff. Apart from the rope.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_VhXCCxHohlGzFz-Ahp9yfJRt9hL3bZTrP6cfCPpFWJUkF5vi0HpOI54EvX4WsHWbboJ-apToWRkt8uo20DKS4o71o-uqPmLeQP48ZCRj1X_tb4T5AvsXPeiGVxkncVC84ZN4nQAkzc/s1600/IMG_0948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="top rope ice climbing" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_VhXCCxHohlGzFz-Ahp9yfJRt9hL3bZTrP6cfCPpFWJUkF5vi0HpOI54EvX4WsHWbboJ-apToWRkt8uo20DKS4o71o-uqPmLeQP48ZCRj1X_tb4T5AvsXPeiGVxkncVC84ZN4nQAkzc/s320/IMG_0948.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing top-rope on a single rope</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Harness</b> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I own a Camp Air CR harness and use it for most of the climbing I do. I did add two Black Diamond Ice Clippers as extra gear loops for the ice screws, as they make carrying and (un)clipping the screws very easy, especially the BD screws. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Various</b><br />Next to the items listed above, you need some other stuff, like a few 120cm <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sling_%28climbing_equipment%29" target="_blank">slings</a>, a daisy chain, a belay biner, a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belay_devices" target="_blank">belay device</a>, some extra carabiners - screwgate and wire-gate, a few <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prussik" target="_blank">prussik</a> ropes, an abalakov hook, some rope for an abalakov, and I think that's about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br />In the picture below I'm testing an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abalakov_thread" target="_blank">Abalakov</a> anchor, to which I'm connected by a Grivel Daisy Chain. Abalakov anchors can be surprisingly strong, when constructed correctly. <br />A regular sling would also work, but Grivel one is very easy adjustable, and and each loop has a breaking strength of 22kn. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGUXUwrmbO7FRtD_Ysch_dshmXx-xvaC9UCmAVo024RuPZE7LnceikdmGZJTy9iFp3Mm24PyYVSntOkusC9_TOvbuFMr7Bp8rgMCUkQsT9YIBsZLNHhBXcZR2GL6sw4tQa2qVeE6zkqo/s1600/GroteFoto-WIFOPGVR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGUXUwrmbO7FRtD_Ysch_dshmXx-xvaC9UCmAVo024RuPZE7LnceikdmGZJTy9iFp3Mm24PyYVSntOkusC9_TOvbuFMr7Bp8rgMCUkQsT9YIBsZLNHhBXcZR2GL6sw4tQa2qVeE6zkqo/s320/GroteFoto-WIFOPGVR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The subject of which clothing to wear while ice climbing is out of scope for this post, as it's a complex issue - maybe I'll do a seperate post later. Let's just say I brought enough layers, and lots of gloves and mittens.<br /><br /><span style="font-size: small;">Most of the gear I used I bought myself, however, one of the Grivel Quantum Light axes was sponsored by <a href="http://klimwinkel.nl/">Klimwinkel.nl</a>, a Dutch climbing- and mountaineering-gear webshop, in return for first impressions and a review of the axe and Petzl crampons.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Climbing can be dangerous: don't rely on information from wikipedia articles or other blogs and websites alone; get proper training and experience!</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRy7U5EtH39RVQVWGkzZ8uvQGhLFgCt4FlRdvhm6kuBt6ZSxkZNMDoDk9BjGxTyWJVVhb721EaVZLwJ0sVeOCHDblbV5wr3qB-HhYuKsCE_0mhZFQinKv9Ck8P4q2HAc6stY8-RFbKvA/s1600/IMG_0938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Gasthaus Luesens" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRy7U5EtH39RVQVWGkzZ8uvQGhLFgCt4FlRdvhm6kuBt6ZSxkZNMDoDk9BjGxTyWJVVhb721EaVZLwJ0sVeOCHDblbV5wr3qB-HhYuKsCE_0mhZFQinKv9Ck8P4q2HAc6stY8-RFbKvA/s320/IMG_0938.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Returning to Gasthaus Luesens after a long day of climbing</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-85067309973762452092012-01-06T12:32:00.000+01:002012-01-17T23:17:11.605+01:00Denali: gear that worked & gear that didnt, before I totally forget<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">True to the name of the blog; on my trip to <a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.com/2011/06/denali-trip-report-pictures.html" target="_blank">Denali</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;"> I took a fairly big pile of gear.</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/5sPXM1quHvU?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJVzgMR4PJlxOPdIdYezojPCGnJsX_ywvN1DhSH5Xx4SBU9iatUq29FKbhSKSy7jKjxAX4tamEzqLEvGhG4O8a-nqEN_emmT04aFMvSGHlF8zNhz5Ww-AWrkJBma32wMvmSy2VSsWjDjM/s1600/Nummer+38+%25284+van+47%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">A lot of it worked great, with some, I had some issues. All items are important, but some more then others. I would say the most important items are:</span></div>
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sleepingbag: </span><a href="http://www.phdesigns.co.uk/sleepingbags.php?cat=63" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;" target="_blank">PHD Xero 1000</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Down Parka: <a href="http://www.phdesigns.co.uk/product_info.php?cat=110&products_id=311" target="_blank">PHD Rondoy</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Backpack: </span><a href="http://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/golite_2011_terrono_90_litre_rucksack.html" target="_blank">GoLite Terrono 90</a> <span style="font-size: x-small;">(<a href="http://sietovanderheide.blogspot.com/2011/07/gear-review-golite-terrono-90l-backpack.html" target="_blank">excellent review here (ahem)</a>)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Boots: <a href="http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/spantik" target="_blank">La Sportiva Spantik</a> <span style="font-size: x-small;">(<a href="http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html" target="_blank">good review</a>) (<a href="http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/la-sportiva-spantik-review" target="_blank">another good review</a>)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br />A quick report of how some of the gear functioned in the field, to help aspiring Denali climbers:</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Packpack - GoLite Terrono 90: see my review (bring a spare hipbelt-buckle though!)</span></li>
</ul>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Boots - La Sportiva Spantik: I need a euro size 47 to fit these, and with that size boot you need extra long linking bars for your crampons. Also, these were difficult to get on at high camp. This can be due to feet swelling a bit at high altitude, but do take this into account when trying & buying! I'd say at least a half size up.</span></li>
</ul>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Crampons - <a href="http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/mountaineering-crampons/vasak" target="_blank">Petzl Vasak (lever-lock)</a>: because you're wearing overboots at higher altitudes, you really want a basket at the toes. A lever usually works on the heel, but can be a bit of a pain. For easy on-off, I'd recommend baskets for the front and back.</span></li>
</ul>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Overboots - <a href="http://www.40below.com/products_detail.php?ProductID=3" target="_blank">Forty Below K2 Superlight</a>: these help in keeping your toes warm at higher altitudes, but can make fitting crampons a challenge. Don't expect they'll look as nice at the end of the trip as when you get them. These double as outer camp-booties.</span></li>
</ul>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Gloves - <a href="http://hestragloves.com/en/gloves/alpine-pro/heli-glove/" target="_blank">Hestra Army Leather Heli Ski</a>: used at 14k camp and above (lighter gloves are usually enough until that camp), very durable because of the army leather palms - but treat the leather before you leave, so it's more snow/water-resitant! For the coldest temps - switch to mitts.</span></li>
</ul>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Mittens - <a href="http://www.phdesigns.co.uk/product_info.php?cat=117&products_id=74" target="_blank">PHD Xero Down Mitts</a>: Mitts are used when gloves can't produce enough warmth, which is usually the case when it's either very very cold, or very windy. Or both. You <i>will</i> be in these conditions on Denali, so bring quality mitts.</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A complete kit-list can be found online </span><a href="http://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/vdh2011kitlist.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-8732563710573041792011-12-24T14:35:00.000+01:002013-01-25T12:59:02.194+01:00Gear: Extremities Lightweight Guide Glove<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Most activities have their own requirements for gloves, which will be influenced by weather, activity, terrain and temperature; even on a short trip you'll probably take more then one pair.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I'm always looking for the perfect 'light' glove, for when it's not too cold. One that fights off that first chill. One to fend off the wind. One to wear hiking, scrambling and crossing a glacier. It would be nice if they're lightweight too, and don't break the bank.</span></div>
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<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I had high hopes I had found that perfect glove when I came across the <a href="http://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/extremities_lightweight_guide_gloves.html" target="_blank">Extremities Lightweight Guide Glove</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RGpT08oM8g0/TvXN9HzAlLI/AAAAAAAAAeI/Z7NZ7ws07Bk/s1600/IMG_0862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Extremities Lightweight Guide Glove" border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RGpT08oM8g0/TvXN9HzAlLI/AAAAAAAAAeI/Z7NZ7ws07Bk/s320/IMG_0862.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">They're </span><span style="font-size: small;"> light: my size XL's weigh only 58 grams. </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: small;">They're
windproof, because of the Windstopper fabric on the back. They're
durable, because of the Pittards leather palm. They're dextrous, because
of the thin fabric and the way the gloves are sewn, an example are the
roll-top fingers. They look clean, because of the neoprene wrist cuffs. They're a tight, '2nd-skin-like', fit, but are true to
size.<br /><br />During my <a href="http://vimeo.com/33832483" target="_blank">recent trip</a>
to Spains Sierra Nevada mountains, I encountered high winds, with
100+km/h gusts. With a base-temperature of around 0 degrees C, the
wind-chill temperature was around -10C, maybe even a bit colder. Apart
from only a few times when they felt a bit cold, my hands were perfectly
protected from the wind. Holding the occasional boulder or bit of sharp rock
left the gloves (and my hands) no worse for wear.<br /><br />Although this is not exactly a
long-term report, and as such I can't comment yet on long term
durability (they probably won't last for lots of seasons, because the leather is a bit thin-ish), I'm very enthousiastic about these gloves. They'll
definately be coming on my next alpine trips. They'll be used to replace
liner gloves, which I don't need if I bring these, and will be used as replacement for my 'light
climbing gloves' - the other pair of gloves I would wear when scrambling
and crossing glaciers. <br /><br />If you have questions about these gloves, please post a comment.</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-90869928816571908462011-12-08T16:17:00.001+01:002012-02-19T21:54:03.947+01:00Book Review: Alpine Mountaineering<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I've done a few mountaineering courses in the past few years, and have also climbed a few mountains. However, living in The Netherlands means I don't have very easy access to mountains. This makes it hard to get a lot of experience and keep up to date with things like crevasse-rescue techniques. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">So what do I do when I'm at home? - I at least try to stay up to date with the theoretical part of things. For that, there's the internet and there are books. I can easily get lost on the net for hours watching YouTube and reading about climbing gear, layering strategies for clothing, how to get a low pack-weight etc.. But it's also nice to hold a real book once in a while. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Recently I bought Alpine Mountaineering by Bruce Goodlad </span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(Pesda Press, ISBN 978-1-906095-30-7).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDBtiqKvSvYk_t37fEMZ2AIuXuF0wVRs5ThwOALnyfIvTyMV4KQqhDlRhanGBKsr8yqwFhQM9Ty-JUUN_rOqNoDuEKUjZYWvIsX4_c32AO5VAJlttnx3wJ64yUWhGY62Ur7EbZwS47cbU/s1600/IMG_0695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Alpine Mountaineering Bruce Goodlad" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDBtiqKvSvYk_t37fEMZ2AIuXuF0wVRs5ThwOALnyfIvTyMV4KQqhDlRhanGBKsr8yqwFhQM9Ty-JUUN_rOqNoDuEKUjZYWvIsX4_c32AO5VAJlttnx3wJ64yUWhGY62Ur7EbZwS47cbU/s320/IMG_0695.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The book seems to be written for British hillwalkers wanting to 'cross the channel' and go the European Alps.</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: small;"> However, once you get past that, you find a book that describes alpine mountaineering basics which are off course universaly applicable in alpine terrain.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">There are chapters like: 'About the Alps', 'Alpine Weather' and a Guidebook section which are very specific to the (Western) Alps. Having been there a few times, it's very nice to recognize certain things - for instance a picture of Pierre of the Dix hut.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">There are also chapters which are - although not new information for me for the the most part - always nice to read for gear-junkies like myself, like 'Kit for the Alps' and 'Technical Equipment'. Personally I rarely get tired from reading about how an alpine climbing rack is made up. Ice-screws, slings, carabiners, quick-draws, nuts, cams, there's lots of toys. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69dLbS9CFf1FFhV_6pxU9IRHgKPqrK_-lbeNckrfqV-kxVy6ENZyA_y8EOfwY4p-pwJp-aZ2bMK7m9VAWLoG7McHOHajgqjx1_nONyhzJyE1NpymvpBWcfE3MjvV42iZD2A6mOAijRJY/s1600/IMG_0694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69dLbS9CFf1FFhV_6pxU9IRHgKPqrK_-lbeNckrfqV-kxVy6ENZyA_y8EOfwY4p-pwJp-aZ2bMK7m9VAWLoG7McHOHajgqjx1_nONyhzJyE1NpymvpBWcfE3MjvV42iZD2A6mOAijRJY/s320/IMG_0694.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Chapters about 'Alpine Movement', 'Glacier Travel' and 'Speed vs. Security' are also there. Although there's no substitute for experience there's loads of pictures showing you how it's done.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I find I re-read sections of the book every now and again. The style in which the book is written makes it easy to read, and the pictures make everything very clear. I would highly recommend this book for 'budding alpinists' but also for mountaineers with some experience - there something there for everybody.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><br />disclosure: I've bought the book myself and haven't been asked by the author to do a review. I also haven't asked him about the pictures I took of the book, so I hope that's ok ;-) </span></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4845666810947971988.post-68191712765560458122011-07-03T20:25:00.000+02:002013-08-05T10:49:36.047+02:00Gear: GoLite Terrono 90L Backpack<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">For my recent trip to Denali I need a backpack. A big backpack, because I would haul a lot of stuff up and down the mountain. On previous trips, I had used a GoLite Pinnacle 70L pa</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">ck. I really liked it; it carried comfortable if loaded up to 18 kilo's, but on Denali I would have to carry much more, and I would also need more room - 70 liters just wouldn't be enough.<br /><br />So I started to look for another pack. Fortunately I didn't ha</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">ve to look far, because I started looking on the GoLite web-site, where I found the <a href="http://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/golite_2011_terrono_90_litre_rucksack.html">Terrono</a>. The specs looked good, a 90 liter (or approx. 5500 cu.in.) with a comfortable suspension for a little over 2 kilo's (2.04 kilo to be exact, or 72 ounces. Off course this isn'</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">t a lightweight pack by any means, because, despite experiments (on Backpacking Light for instance) to prove the opposite, a lightweight pack isn't the way to go on a mountain like Denali, that is, if you also want to carry that 25 kilo's or more in any comfort.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sqRKzga8lGk1EpbqmCcRTnL3rILFn0y5HRdVEs7orE4Jcrl0bkVIW8oouQqoioO48rm44QuvVRMoGhG7VGULnSraoK5U5W5ZZLhs3i94buhELc-28n5KJ4i3GfP9_Mf-cOhQEC_GbBY/s1600/Backpack+GoLite+Terrono+90L.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625200976294588322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sqRKzga8lGk1EpbqmCcRTnL3rILFn0y5HRdVEs7orE4Jcrl0bkVIW8oouQqoioO48rm44QuvVRMoGhG7VGULnSraoK5U5W5ZZLhs3i94buhELc-28n5KJ4i3GfP9_Mf-cOhQEC_GbBY/s200/Backpack+GoLite+Terrono+90L.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 200px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">So, I deci</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">ded I'd</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;"> try the Terrono. I</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;"> got it from <a href="http://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/home.html">Ultralight Outdoor Gear</a> in the UK</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 85%;">. I had ordeded some items for my Aconcagua trip (the Pinnacle pack in fact) and other trips from them before, so it was an easy choice to look for it there.<br /><br />I got the pack well in advance of the Denali trip, so I could train a lot with it. Off course the terrain in the Netherlands is mostly flat, so I couldn't train going up and down that much. What I did do, is load up my pack up to around 30 kilo's and walk around the park.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6cIK7aLhEag6fwOWwL1MTI9fDkfiyZvH-fFo7pKUnxclAvJIlhuWwATDwJQPt6GI8q51QzK4AxJITKoN-YPpDFKXIWgKWEeksPgztRr7Y_edqCDw2p7JFVPY-Nc9H9778Cd34RzyMO4/s1600/_MG_1268.JPG"><img alt="GoLite Terrono 90 Review" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625199436994993378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6cIK7aLhEag6fwOWwL1MTI9fDkfiyZvH-fFo7pKUnxclAvJIlhuWwATDwJQPt6GI8q51QzK4AxJITKoN-YPpDFKXIWgKWEeksPgztRr7Y_edqCDw2p7JFVPY-Nc9H9778Cd34RzyMO4/s200/_MG_1268.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 134px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After having trained for months, in May it was finally time for the real thing; the Denali trip. The trip was planned for 21 days. The first 8 to 10 days we would carry the pack and pull a sled, after that (from the 11k Camp and up) all gear would be carried in the pack. That included personal gear (sleeping bag, pad, clothes, water bottles, etc.) and group gear (tent, food, fuel, shovels, etc.). I was curious how the pack would hold up.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It held up great. On every single day I had enough room for everything I had to carry, altough on some days I did have to carry some gear on the outside of the pack, because they would be too bulky or dangerous (sharp) inside the pack, like CCF sleeping mat or a shovel. Weight never was a problem. Altough loads of 20 kilo's and up are never really comfortable, I carried those kinds of load in relative comfort with the Terrono. The suspension is great, and the hipbelt is wide and stays firmly on the hips, making moving easy. The narrow profile of the pack also helped on the more exposed parts of the route on the mountain.</span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdAGyUy2b-sZCfNhHvhk1t_5m-62uoTW2X9i_DiCKeBflgKtTB4QeCjcvPV6fnJWqEwU061I21ZHuyG33hX0VQaoBoD6EOEfjlGGXPAq2z1D2W_qhnw4HC44_5ilnKXQnk62pIOft6H20/s1600/Nummer+38+%252824+van+47%2529.JPG"><img alt="GoLite Terrono 90 Denali" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625203814685844674" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdAGyUy2b-sZCfNhHvhk1t_5m-62uoTW2X9i_DiCKeBflgKtTB4QeCjcvPV6fnJWqEwU061I21ZHuyG33hX0VQaoBoD6EOEfjlGGXPAq2z1D2W_qhnw4HC44_5ilnKXQnk62pIOft6H20/s200/Nummer+38+%252824+van+47%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 150px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The only thing I can fault the pack for is that the belt buckle broke on decent. This could be a result of wear, or the intense cold up high (-25c at night at high camp). Luckily a teammate had a spare buckle and the problem was fixed easily.<br /><br />Another thing that's in the design of the pack, is that it has an opening in the bottom of the pack, so you can get to the gear down there easily. I never used that, and would rather not have seen that opening there. The zipper adds weight, and it also makes the pack look less 'clean'. But that's more a personal preference I think.<br />Because of the buckle breaking, and of the slight over-designing of the pack, the pack doesn't get full marks.<br /><br />I would give the <span style="font-weight: bold;">GoLite Terrono 90L</span> a score of <span style="font-weight: bold;">8.5 out of 10</span>. I would definately use it again on a similar trip.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 78%;">The Terrono backpack was provided to me by Ultralight Outdoor Gear free of charge, and I got to keep it after testing it. Thanks again Mark!</span></span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.com0